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Routes in Le Petit Cheval

First Amendment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spontaneity Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spontaneous Distraction T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ian Nicholson, Chris McNamara
Page Views: 264 total, 7/month
Shared By: Rafe on Oct 13, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

First Amendment climbs almost directly up the West face of La Petit Cheval. The route starts in earnest after a short low 5th pitch on a large ledge with trees and a white streaked wall to the left of a big arch.

Pitch 1: Starts via a short, direct, and obvious 5.10a thin crack or a 5.8 crack to the right. Easier 5th class climbing to the start of pitch 2.

Pitch 2: Ascend low angle cracks up and right to a 5.9 face climbing section with minimal gear. Climb up into a big choss cave with bolts to begin pitch3.

Pitch 3: Climb around the corner to the left of the belay bolts and up blocky nondescript terrain until reaching a ledgy area with a short vegetated groove to the left. Keep your eye out for this groove and don't climb too high. 5.9

Pitch 4: Traverse right and down climb a little during the traverse, then climb up easy 5th to a large sloping ledge with two belay bolts.

Pitch 5: Start climbing to the right of the belay bolts on the most obvious or easiest section through weird bulges to a finger crack dihedral with a big tree in the middle of it. 5.9

Pitch 6: Climb up and right through thin cracks into a series of changing corners. To exit the last corner either climb up and left through a weird bulge with big quartz pockets or right into the last corner ending at a tree with the bolt in sight of the next pitch. 5.10c

Pitch 7: Mantle a big ledge to the right of the belay, clip the bolt and climb up the corner ascending obvious features ending at a tree.

From here the route follows Spontaneity Arete to the summit. Climb up and left to reach the Goldie Crack and continue up obvious and easy terrain to the summit.

I've entered the given grade for the route but feel it deserves a significant downgrade, 10.b tops. The "crux 5.11" pitch is maybe .10a.

This route will probably never become classic. It lacks sustained interesting features, a natural line, remoteness, or intimidating posture... any of which can contribute to a classic route. But if you wanna be alone and tick a soft 5.11 with an hour approach go get it!

Location

Ascend the trail as for Spontaneity Arete but break left once you are virtually at the base of Spontaneity Arete. There is a sucker trail that starts left too early, don't follow it. There isn't a worn climbers trail to the base. Follow pretty much the only way to get there once you start the traverse to the big ledge. You can't really go too high or to low because it's either a rock wall above or 70+ degree vegetation below.

Protection

.5-2 x2 Camalot
1x 3 Camalot
Bring small nuts, small cams, and and maybe an extra in purple TCU size. Don't skimp on the small stuff, most of what is placed on pitch 6 is small gear.

Photos

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