Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Every pitch feels like 5.7: (Descriptions are Approx.)
1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof
2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.
Class 3 for ten mins
3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.
4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.
5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.
6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.
7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.
Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)
(In Mazama Guide book) From the Pullout across the valley from the formation follow climbers trail, which starts at south then of pull off, down to the creek and back up the opposite side of the valley. The sandy ledges start about ~100-150 Left of the drainage (Picture.) Following these ledges up and Left, following easiest ground, will get you to the fixed lines. From the top of the fixed lines scramble up and a little right to gain a weak ridge line. From here follow the developing ridge to where the ridge steepens into upper 5th class. From these few trees traverse out left to find the snag mentioned in the book and vertical (#3) 5.7 crack, both of which are on the more exposed part of the ridge. This is where the first pitch starts.
Cams to #3 and nuts, doubles of #1. Extendable runners.