Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,254 total · 80/month
Shared By: atfarley farley on Jul 14, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

49 Opinions

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Every pitch feels like 5.7: (Descriptions are Approx.)

1st: from snag on exposed side of ridge follow cracks up to just below the roof

2nd: under roof and out right another 50 ft.

Class 3 for ten mins

3rd: start on the steepening ground and follow cracks up until comfortable or you reach the base of a 10" crack.

4th: Find or start up 10" crack (gear to left), short. Once on top follow finger and hand cracks until past a shallow gully and bushes, belay at flat section.

5th: follow crack in corner to the right, or cracks strait above to a tree. Follow corner that the tree is in (lieback). Once above corner follow moderate ground before another steepening in the ridge.

6th: follow cracks (picture) up to less steep ground. Belay after ~140 feet, before final head wall which has #3 crack out left.
7th: optional, #3 crack Left of an easier gully. Short, two or three pieces, but well worth it.

Descend the route (careful, some rope stretching raps with a 60)


(In Mazama Guide book) From the Pullout across the valley from the formation follow climbers trail, which starts at south then of pull off, down to the creek and back up the opposite side of the valley. The sandy ledges start about ~100-150 Left of the drainage (Picture.) Following these ledges up and Left, following easiest ground, will get you to the fixed lines. From the top of the fixed lines scramble up and a little right to gain a weak ridge line. From here follow the developing ridge to where the ridge steepens into upper 5th class. From these few trees traverse out left to find the snag mentioned in the book and vertical (#3) 5.7 crack, both of which are on the more exposed part of the ridge. This is where the first pitch starts.


Cams to #3 and nuts, doubles of #1. Extendable runners.


Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
You can easily walk off via the gully on the lookers right with no rappels. Oct 20, 2011
Lindsey Frallic
Lindsey Frallic   Bellingham
Recommended if you are confident you will finish the climb as the more sustained pitches are toward the top. Takes sun later into the day in the summer. Route finding is straight forward for a ridge climb in the Cascades. The 5.9 boulder move option described in Brian's guide is exciting. A good beginner/intermediate trad route as it's not overly committing, there is plenty of space to practice building anchors above established rap stations, it lends itself to some scrambling/simul-climbing, and there is opportunity for down-climbing if you decide not to walk the gully. Jul 23, 2012
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
Good route but not great. Climb it 21-Jul-2012.

The approach has three fixed lines. On the approach, when you get to a small grotto climb up and right to get to the third fixed line.

We merged pitches 3, 4 and 5 into two pitches. Even so, we never placed more then 6 pieces on any pitch. Pitch 2 requiring the most gear. Recommend you take about nine slings, of which two or three double length, for slinging trees. We never used any thing smaller then .75 Camalot nor bigger then 3 and we used a few mid-size nuts.

On the climb when you get to a rap anchor, continue climbing for about 20 to 30 feet beyond the anchor to get to a nicer belay spot.

Pitches 6 and 7 are the money pitches. Pitch 2 even though not rated as hard as pitch 7, to us it seemed to be the crux of the climb.

Pitch 7 has a variation. Instead of doing the awesome 5.7 leaning crack (by far the better of the two choices). Climb the block shallow troth to the right. Walk a short ledge to an exposed step, and the start of another steep indentation. Climb it to the top.

After pitch 7 there is about 200 to 300 feet of 3rd and a 4th class move at the summit. If going all the way to the summit you are committing to descend the gully. From the summit one rap toward to gully will get you down. One 60m rope will work, but a 70m would be nicer – however this is the only time a 70m would be nicer then a 60m on this climb.

Once in the gully stay in it until you can easily get back on the ridge at the 3rd class section between pitches 2 and 3. Down climb and rap the ridge until you get to the start of pitch 2 (just before the roof). From here it is an easy hike down the gully to the start of pitch one.

The trail back may be difficult to follow in the dark. Jul 26, 2012
Marq Diamond  
Some fun pitches interspersed with choss scrambling and low angle dirt. Difficult approach is longer than it looks. When not soloing the dirt, we moved together.

Definitely not 4 stars. Would struggle to give it 2. Nonetheless, good day for some fitness training and choss-dogging.

I would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn't read the over-inflated topos describing the routes. May 12, 2013
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
Enjoyable long alpine-style route will take a 5.7 climber most of a day. Beta in the comments is more useful than the main description - never did find the 10" crack?!

The route-finding is trickier for the approach than the route. If you haven't passed all three hand lines, you're not at the climb yet. The 'Pac-man' overhang on pitch two is obvious from the start and visible from the highway.

The big flake on pitch 2 is loose and should be trundled, but isn't too tricky to climb around with caution.

Single 60 rope is fine with some low-fifth down climbing. May 26, 2014
I typically try to avoid rapelling but the gully did not look very inviting, so we rapped the top pitches, probably 4 or 5 raps. then walked in the gully. this was a mistake, we should have stayed on the ridge and down climbed to the top of the 2nd pitch and then rapped from there once more. the gully was tediously slow and super loose. the upper part of the gully might have been okay, but the bottom section was terrible, i would not enter that gully if there was another party above you. we were alone up there so wasnt an issue.

bring a light rack. you dont really need to build any belays, there are trees abundant.

approach is short and easy to follow. the route was easy to follow to. lots of 3rd class mixed with low 5th class and small sections of 5.6/5.7, overall fun route with great views. Sep 25, 2014
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
If you're a newer 5.7 alpine leader this could be a fun route as the 5.7 sections aren't terrible sustained and gear options abound. I believe what is described here in the 7th pitch, which starts as a wide crack and narrows, is the funnest of the route. You can protect a deck with a red tri cam (used a pink, it worked but was at the end of it's range) in a horizontal left of the crack, then plug a smaller piece in the main crack above where it widens and avoid using a #3. We did bring a #3 and didn't miss it. If in doubt though bring a 3 and place it here.

If you scramble the gully to the start of P3 and look at where the rap line drops in there is a really fun 5.8 (follower though 8+) lieback finger crack that quickly eases up. You can bump out right just above it to minimize rope drag for the rest of this pitch.

Cams .4-#2, with doubles of .75 and 1. One set of nuts. One pink tricam.
Jun 22, 2015
Portland, Or
Morrismc   Portland, Or
54 minutes from the car
2 hours for the climb
40 minutes descent down gulley (nothing compared to tetons but be careful!)

Fun morning climb!

Bring a single rack if pitching it out. If simuling, a doubles in fingers were nice.

I'd highly recommend the gulley descent unless there are going to be people above and below you. In that case! Avoid it! Jul 23, 2015
Jennifer L  
As of Oct 4, 2015, the approach has only 2 fixed lines (the bottom most one has been removed). Hiking the approach out, you can still rap that section if you need to though (there is some tat around a tree at the top).

Basing the pitches on what's described in Supertopo - You can rap from near the summit all the way down to the top of pitch 3 (bottom of pitch 4). From there, you can either scramble down to the top of pitch 2 to make one final rap into the gully (and descend down the gully to start of pitch 1) OR descend the very loose gully the whole way. If you decide to do the latter, you will probably want to bring along your approach shoes and leave them at the top of pitch 3 for the descent. Oct 7, 2015
Eric Thompson
Mountlake Terrace wa
Eric Thompson   Mountlake Terrace wa
The route is alright, i don't know if i'd go back. I went solo and botched the approach, I should have been further climbers right in a very well traveled gulley with a fixed line.

As for the decent, I down climbed from the summit to the top of pitch two right above the roof and then did two raps with a single 60 IN THE DIRECTION OF THE HIGHWAY, not the gully. That leads to an easy walk around (2 minutes) back to the start of the route. Jul 31, 2016
Silverdale, WA
jp.brown   Silverdale, WA
With an experienced leader and a trad gumby follower (me), it took us 10.5 hours from car to car, doing the gully descent. Nice rock on the climb, not so much in the gully, accidentally sent a few large rocks tumbling. Sep 19, 2016

overall i thought this route was ok for the grade. this would make a great practice guide route as there are a lot of transitions to deal with, as well as a slightly tweaky descent.

we did the layback in nick drake's photo, which i thought was the route. in general you can kind of climb anywhere. the rock on the upper portion of the route was really good and the summit was pretty cool. Aug 6, 2017
Kyle Elliott
Everett, WA
Kyle Elliott   Everett, WA
Took the fixed lines on the way up, made it to the base in about an hour, including time spent filling our water at the creek. Saw another party approaching from the road, they appeared to be taking a different trail.

We ran into them near the summit, and they mentioned the way they went was rather mellow. We made 4 raps, then exited into the gully, which isn't as bad as people say. no worse than the liberty bell or kangaroo temple gullies, and less steep. following the gully even lower than the base of the route, we picked up a yellow-taped route through the trees and around the side of a small cliff band....completely bypassing all the fixed lines/loose scree.

If taking this way on the way up, turn right just before the giant cave on the approach, and head up a ramp system into the trees. follow yellow tape up right, then back left around a cliff band before traversing slightly up and left where it briefly enters the gully. cut back left out the gully at the base of the route. Aug 14, 2017
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
There have been multiple accidents on this route, including a fatality and a recent 2-patient incident. While the route is easy and quick, it is not without typical alpine hazards (steep approach, loose rock, other parties in gully, etc.). It's good to be aware that the difficulties of doing this route safely aren't reflected in a YDS rating. Have fun, climb smart.
publications.americanalpine… Jul 16, 2018

damn, that's a horrible accident. really sad to read. Jul 16, 2018
The yellow tape that Kyle Elliott mentioned in Aug 2017 is no longer reliable. I saw two yellow-taped trees total, and I was repeatedly looking for them! Jul 31, 2018
matt huston
Seattle, WA
matt huston   Seattle, WA
My second time on this route. Approach is straightforward if you follow trail in woods and trail plus cairns in talus until the slabs start. Then just follow the worn path carefully, looking for three handlines at various points. Both times i climbed this i felt that, a) the sections that are 5th class have more "loosely solid" blocks than i'm comfortable with and that don't show up in the route description, which makes me think that across this broad ridge there is one perfect path, and if you find it amongst the many options, you'll probably love this as much as the guidebook writer; and b) the lower pitch and a half of 5th class is interesting but then there's a hugely long 2nd/3rd class section that takes kills the flow until you reach the upper few pitches when the route steepens. As a "training" route for folks who want to eventually venture out onto long routes and harder routes, this is probably a good climb to cut your teeth on and see how you like a long day, some loose rock, some route finding, some simul climbing, some down climbing and some rappels that need to be managed carefully, and some good pitches, all with a single rap easy escape into the gully if things don't work out. If you are already comfortable there and want something fun and low stress, I think you'd do better to climb Blue's Buttress on Poster Peak farther up Early Winter's Creek near the "hairpin." It's similar grade and more interesting, IMHO. Sep 7, 2018