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Routes in Le Petit Cheval

First Amendment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spontaneity Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spontaneous Distraction T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Thad Nelson, Joe Wiederhold Aug 2011
Page Views: 1,957 total · 26/month
Shared By: CameraisHeavy on Aug 12, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Pitch One- Locate the first bolt which blends in very well. From here climb just above the left trending overlap (see Beta Photo) then up over 3 bolts on some exciting face climbing 5.10a
Pitch Two- Head up past two bolts and catch a crack(5.10a). Traverse right at the third bolt and take easier cracks to the anchor.
Pitch Three- A sport pitch with a tough start(5.10a) easing into more moderate face climbing(5.7-8) after the first twenty feet. Climb until you reach the tree anchor.
Pitch Four. Continue up fun cracks (5.6-7) to the top build a gear anchor or belay off of a tree.

Location

This Route is close to Le Petit Chaval and can be accessed by climbing the first three pitches of Spontaneity arete and cutting across the gully, or for a faster approach take the gully that parallels Spontaneity arete (see beta photo below). Or if you want a long day or you just didn't get enough you can rap down one rappel from the top of Le Petit Chaval to the gully and cut across and down the gully (3rd class) to Spontaneous distraction (in about 20 minutes)

"From milepost 165, park in the large pullout and find a climbers trail at the far west end of the pullout, leading into a boulder field. The trail continues through the woods leading down to Early Winters creek. Cross on a log (may be washed out), or bring sandals to wade the knee deep water. From there, the trail climbs up and left through trees into a clearing that is the runout of a large avalanche path (Snow until mid season). Cross the clearing and climb to the upper left edge where a trail will take off close to the rock. Three small, dirty and slabby sections are equipped with fixed ropes to ease the ascent. The Spontaneity Arete Route begins on a ledge at the left hand toe of the ridge next to a large tree."
Burdo Mazama Rock

Approach time to Spontaneity Arete is about 1 hour. Approach time to Spontaneous distraction via the gully is an hour and a half for non-super-humans in average physical shape.

From the top of Spontaneous distraction scramble down to the top of pitch three and rap the route. One 70 meter rope is sufficient. If desired it is also possible to rappel the bottom pitches of Spontaneity Arete rather than hiking down the gully.

Protection

Standard Rack to 2" Some runners to help with rope drag. You may wish to replace the webbing at the top of pitch 3 depending on it's condition. This route requires a single 70 meter rope to rappel.

Photos

CameraisHeavy
Everett, wa
  5.10a
CameraisHeavy   Everett, wa
  5.10a
If anyone climbs this please put in your vote for the difficulty rating. Aug 23, 2012
Morrismc
Portland, Or
Morrismc   Portland, Or
haven't climbed it but looked over at that face hoping there was a route up it! Nice work! Will have to go back for this one! Jul 23, 2015

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