Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches
FA: P. Murdock I. Silva (JUL2014)
Page Views: 455 total · 5/month
Shared By: Pat M on Sep 11, 2014

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Follow dirt road ~5 km from main paved road. Road will pass in front of the North Ridge, then over to the eastern side of the rock. Park at a 3-way crossroads underneath a good shade tree on the right side of the road (it will be obvious on the satellite photo). Follow a foot path SW into the field towards the rock. The trail will pass a big tree in the middle of the field. Leave the trail here and trend due West to the right side of the face. You will see several white quartz bands running down the face. Start to the right of the right-most quartz band, just below a horizontal dark bank that crosses the face. You will see the first bolt about 30 feet up.

Pitch One: Follow good edges on a moderate slab up and right to a good ledge. Clip the bolt then move up and left onto the dark band. Move right across the dark band, passing a second bolt and then up to a bolt below a big flake. Step left to pass the flake on it's left side. A #1 Camelot fits perfectly in the top of the flake, then run it out about 40 feet to the 2-bolt belay. 5.8 (50m)

Pitch Two: Up and right off the belay, passing one bolt and aiming for the bottom right side of a large flake near the shoulder of the mountain. Do not pull on the flake (especially at the top), but there is a 0.5 Camelot placement at the bottom of the flake that will 'probably' hold based on the way the flake is attached to the wall. Just be very delicate with this flake... it is huge and unlikely to go, but if it does go, it will definitely kill your belayer (that is not an exaggeration). Pass the flake and move up and right onto the shoulder. Follow the shoulder past two removable bolt holes (all at obvious stances/ledges, so shouldn't be too hard to find) up to a 2-bolt belay.

Pitch Three: Continue up the shoulder (angle has eased off at the belay), it's basically walking. I put 2 removable bolt holes, but primarily for the descent. Continue up the shoulder into a cluster of small boulders and the edge of the grass. I encountered a snake here (species unknown), so be careful in the grass at the top of the dome.

Descent: The shoulder was extremely windy the day we climbed the route, so I lowered my partner down Pitch 3, then got on belay to down climb/walk that pitch, with the Removable bolts as intermediate pro. I actually slid a bit on this downclimb (albeit in tennis shoes), so don't take it too lightly. Definitely worth being roped up, but pulling rappels ropes on the shoulder might be a nightmare in high winds. From the top of pitch 2, it's 2 x 50 meter rappels to the ground. Watch where the rope is running as there are lots of flakes/cacti that can snag the rope.

Objective hazards: Besides the snake and 2 giant rats who live on top, I also encountered a swarm of bees at the 1st belay. There was no obvious source of the bees, so I don't think I disturbed a nest, but there were hundreds of them spread out all over the rock, buzzing around and occasionally landing on the rock. They never bothered me, neither landing on me nor stinging me, but it was quite windy so perhaps they would have in calmer conditions. They appeared for a few minutes, wandered off for a while, then re-appeared for another few minutes before disappearing for the rest of the climb. Never seen that before, but it could have gotten pretty ugly if they had decided they didn't like my presence there.

Gear: 2 x 60m ropes, 6-7 slings, 0.5-2 Camelot, 2 1/2" removable bolts


Gear: 2 x 60m ropes, 6-7 slings, 0.5-2 Camelot, 2 1/2" removable bolts. 1-2 lead bolts placed per 60m pitch...