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Routes in Exclamation Point

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fenton-Oslund Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Don Crawford and Lynn Thomas (1979)
Page Views: 72 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 14, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a very fine route up the southeast side of the Exclamation Point. It shares the same start as the Conn route which is the tight chimney on SE side which separates Exclamation Point from the lesser formations to the east. After just a few feet of chimney climbing, move left to follow an obvious crack system directly up the face. After a horizontal, the crack becomes more of a seam in a subtle corner/groove. The crux is a bit sporty and is protected by very small gear. Bring small nuts and your smallest micro-cams. After a short ways the crack opens up again to fingers, then a handcrack leads through a bulge. Above that, the crack ends and three bolts lead through very juggy knobs and another overhang to the summit.

To descend, rappel from a bolted anchor with 2 ropes down the very sheer south face. Or we made it down with one 70m by rappelling directly back down the climb and downclimbing the first few moves of the start of the route (sort of tricky).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pro to 3" with extra small stuff, 3 bolts.

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Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
Not so certain that Don Crawford and Lynn Thomas did the F.A. on this. I was shown and climbed this route in 1990 with Mike Lewis. He indicated that him and his brother Rusty Lewis had put it up a year or two before... Aug 19, 2014

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