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Routes in Exclamation Point

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fenton-Oslund Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fine Line T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Renn Fenton and Peter Oslund circa 1965
Page Views: 110 total, 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 3, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A great trad climb with just enough of a spook factor to give it a hint of headiness and an impending sense of danger. Much more than Goldline.

Starts in the boulder field. Work your way up a crack system and move to the right into a larger crack system. The crux is escaping the pod you encounter about halfway up. The protection is good here, use some larger nuts and/or some smaller cams.

Once you have escaped the pod you'll find yourself at a face with some crumbly, yellow rock. Move left and around the corner to gain access to a ramp enclosed in a chimney feature.

Place a larger cam in the crack in the ramp of the chimney if you feel the need and work your way to the anchors. Summit register is a short hike to a larger summit above the rap anchor.

Enjoy the airy repel! This is a very doable climb for competant leaders who are good at judging safe gear placements and have a good lead head capable of convincing the body to just keep moving up.

Location

Down the hill from Goldline and Sore Thumb.

Protection

Standard Rack. Bring bigger nuts and a few tricams. Use long slings to give yourself plenty of extension to avoid rope drag.
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I believe this route is the "Fenton-Oslund Route" originally rated 5.7. First ascent by Renn Fenton and Pete Oslund, May 30,1965, Oct 4, 2011