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Routes in First Buttress

A Brief Affair S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Biofuel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Direct Comfortably Numb Free, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Double Barrel Shotgun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Glass Catcher T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just a Little Swordplay S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lot Lizards T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Rest for the Weary T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roll of the Dice T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Trash Summer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: John Kravetz & Tim VanCamp (1976)
Page Views: 228 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dan Bachen on Aug 3, 2014 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

A good and probably often overlooked canyon moderate. Climbing is mostly 5.6-5.7 with one fun section of 5.8 roof. Start in a right facing corner, move up through a cruxy bulge using face holds and a finger crack to gain a ledge below the roof. Pull the large roof using a hand crack and good foot holds then romp up the corner to the top of the buttress.

Location

This route starts at the toe of the first buttress

Protection

Standard canyon rack

Photos

Matt Wenger
Bozeman
 
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
 
Watch for chossy broken loose rock on the left wall. I was leading up this, and no joke, as I was uttering the words "Man, there's some loose stuff here, hope none of these holds brea-!!" Took about a 10-12' grounder. Roof is awesome! Bomber pro too. Bring some tiny cams for a small section above the roof. Mar 27, 2017

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