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Routes in Right Cave

5 Dollar Shake Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
A Stoner Among Us S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Break the Chains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Catalyst S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Face the Damage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Illuminati S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mayor of Crush Town, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Poop Chute, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder My Doughnut S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Room To Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shafted By A Stoner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spray Gun S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 1 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Turecki
Page Views: 244 total · 6/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 2, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

climb up a rampy bulge at the beginning of the climb to suspect looking (and sounding) but bomber holds. climb into the crack that trends right, using hand jams. at the top of the crack gain a quick rest on the bulge and trend left following the bolt line. One should skip a few bolts here to minimize rope drag. After some less quality rock climbing you will come to an anchor. Most choose to clip the anchor and continue the route for full value.

The second pitch is excellent, keep shaking out and find all the good rests. Some slabby moves guard the chains. Lower to the ground on a 70m rope.

Location

This route starts just to the right of Catalyst (5.12c) which is the vertical short face just past the pull up bar. It starts on the right side of the bulge, although must now start left due to a key hold breaking off.

Protection

Pitch one 10 bolts, Pitch two 10 bolts. Be wary of the the first anchor. It's best to continue to the second anchor, or back up the first with additional draws.

Photos

C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.11b
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.11b
As of October 5 the spinning bolt before the crux (#6) and the suspect anchor bolt on the first pitch have been replaced. Oct 7, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.11b
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.11b
The right bolt on the first anchor is the bad one, the left chain is the one you want to clip. Jun 3, 2014