Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Right Cave

5 Dollar Shake Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
A Stoner Among Us S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Break the Chains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Catalyst S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Face the Damage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Illuminati S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mayor of Crush Town, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Poop Chute, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder My Doughnut S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Room To Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shafted By A Stoner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spray Gun S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 1 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Grant Walker
Page Views: 574 total, 13/month
Shared By: Griswald on Mar 12, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This might be the best hard route at Weiner Lake. The crux of this route is towards the end. Most of the good climbing comes after the 5th or 6th bolt. Climb past 5 bolts, then traverse out right and up skipping the 6th bolt wich sometimes has a draw. After the traverse rest on a big jug. Head left and straight up. Most people find that the last draw is hard to clip and choose to skip it. IMO the last bolt is easy to clip (what do I know). If you traverse out right on a ledge right before the last bolt you can stand on a ledge and get a good rest which downs the grade and is known as the Chikaloon escape. For the full experience do not do the Chikaloon escape.

There is also the direct variation to this route known as "Shroom to Believe". Instead of traversing right at the 5th bolt keep climbing up and skip the jug rest. You have to be shrooming to believe that the rest is off! Finish by going straight up and not doing the Chikaloon escape. This variation is the definition of contrived but really fun. (13A) FFA Ben Chriswell

Location

right side of the cave look for fixed draws

Protection

Fixed draws

Photos

0 Comments