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Routes in Right Cave

5 Dollar Shake Direct S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
A Stoner Among Us S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Break the Chains S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Catalyst S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cosmic S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Face the Damage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Illuminati S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mayor of Crush Town, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Poop Chute, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder My Doughnut S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Room To Believe S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shafted By A Stoner T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spray Gun S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unknown 1 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Kryger
Page Views: 561 total · 11/month
Shared By: C. Williams on May 30, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This route is a Wiener Lake classic and considered by some to be the best on the wall. Start in an obvious overhung hand crack and jam to burly exit moves. Tape is a good idea as the inside of the crack is covered with toothy nubbins. Jugs and powerful moves will get you to a right facing dihedral and then the first set of chains. The second pitch starts with moderate climbing before moving into a powerful, bouldery crux midway through the pitch. Save some juice for the bulgy moves to the top anchor. Most climbers link both pitches. If doing this a 70m rope is mandatory.

Location

Center of the right cave, look for the right arching hand crack.

Protection

18 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12a
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12a
Great route. Bring gear to 3" for the bottom crack. Aug 9, 2015
Or bring a long stick clip for Bruce's retro bolts. Aug 9, 2015
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12a
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12a
Nice... At least they didn't bolt the bottom crack. Aug 10, 2015
Griswald  
 
The first bolt is a retro and is right next to the crack. The first bolt and the bolt before getting into the dihedral are all retro bolts. Stick clipping the first bolt does cut down on rope drag making it easier to link the two pitches together. Doing the first and second pitch together in one 35 meter pitch is really fun. Aug 10, 2015

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