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Areas in Weiner Lake Routes

Left Cave 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Left Side Walls 15 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Right Cave 2 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Right Side Walls 10 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
South Park Wall 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 2,353 ft
GPS: 61.813, -148.167 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,127 total, 104/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Sep 28, 2010
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

Alaska's only real concentration of sport climbing. The climbing is on a peculiar igneous formation, that is formed into large overhanging stacked pillars. The most common features are cracks, slopers, edges, pinches and random pockets. The Wookie Wall gets sun until late in the day and is a great early winter/early spring destination, as it site in the sun, for the majority of the day. In the warmer months, the best time to climb at Wookie is the morning or evening, as it is a solar collection furnace during the day, reducing the friction of the rock greatly. . Camping is available, just off the side of the road, for free on the right side of the Glenn Highway going east, just past Weiner Lake. The land owners on Weiner Lake graciously allow campers on their lake, which is mostly private property. The camping is confined to the above mentioned area. Please continue to treat this with respect, to maintain as cohesive relationship with the land-owners as possible. The area can become quite crowded on weekends and holiday weekends especially. Weekdays are the best to avoid a crowd. People are generally friendly, yet quirky. Multiple people using eachothers ropes and gear is the norm for locals here. On the otherhand, pay no attention to locals who have run well over 100 laps on most of the routes and refer to the .1l warm-up as no harder than 5.10a. Being that this is the main sport climbing area of any concentration and quality, running laps and getting beta spewed is common place. Most development to this area is courtesy of Paul Turecki, Grant Walker and friends. Do pay attention here, as rock fall is a potential issue, as is breaking holds on lesser travelled routes. Many holds have been backed-up/reinforced via epoxy. Also beware that the easier climbs tend to be beta intensive, where as the harder routes are more straight forward and obvious.

Getting There

Take the Glenn Highway east toward Glen Allen after leaving Palmer. It is located approximately 90 minutes from Anchorage. The climbing is located at mile 88 along the Glenn. Park at the 2nd pull-off on the right side of the road, just past Weiner Lake. Look for a faint trail heading up to the cliff. The boulders are off of this trail,east and west before the scree/talus field below the wall.. Continue up the north/south trail to reach the cliff band.

81 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Weiner Lake Routes

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Landmine Area
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
First Amendment
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Face the Damage
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Seismic Wave
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreams Never End
Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Shaft
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Break the Chains
Sport 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
King Size
Trad 2 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
A Stoner Among Us
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Room To Believe
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Illuminati
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
5 Dollar Shake Direct
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Landmine Area Left Side Walls 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
First Amendment Left Cave 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Face the Damage Right Cave 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Seismic Wave Left Cave 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Dreams Never End Left Cave 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport 3 pitches
The Shaft Right Cave 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
Break the Chains Right Cave 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport 3 pitches
King Size Left Cave 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 2 pitches
A Stoner Among Us Right Cave 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Room To Believe Right Cave 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Illuminati Right Cave 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
5 Dollar Shake Direct Right Cave 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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