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Routes in Newlywed Area

Almost Paradise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banging The Bedboards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devirginized T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saddlesore S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Should've Used a Rubber S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touchy Feely S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 233 total · 5/month
Shared By: Eric Chabot on May 26, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a crack system through white rock. Great protection and fun opposing side pulls lead to a couple of balancy moves to a mediocre rest before the crux, a crack through a minor bulge at the top of the route. Fire in a small cam and crank buttery finger locks to the chains!

Location

Located on the left side of a large white open book feature with a big chockstone wedged in the corner. The route to the left of it is a really fun 5.11 mixed gear/bolts route.

Protection

Nuts and small to medium cams (red c3 up to a #2 camalot).

Photos

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Michael Bolton
Midvale, UT
  5.10b
Michael Bolton   Midvale, UT
  5.10b
Protection is spaced, but is there exactly when you need it. If you can't find pro, move a couple feet higher. Plug in the 0.5 at the crux, and go for it! Mar 14, 2017

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