Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: James Garret, Kathy Harmston. 5/14/200.
Page Views: 113 total · 1/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Nov 6, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fun climbing with a bit of an intimidating start, but it is all there. Shares anchors with a sport climb to the left.

Location

This climb is in the Newlywed Area. Continue to the North past the large open book with a white page on the left and a brown page on the right. Pass a bolted climb or two and this route should be between two sport climbs. This climb is recognizable by the intermittent cracks with a single bolt half way up.

Protection

one bolt, standard rack to #2 Camalot. 2 Bolt anchor.

Photos

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Banging The BEDboards........but, yes, it is a pretty fun route. The bolted 5.10a ALMOST PARADISE to the left is also very good. Feb 17, 2008
Hi Craig,
Actually, Left of Banging the Bedboards is ALMOST PARADISE, 5.9
Right of Banging is TOUCHY FEELY, 5.9
Right of Wolfenstein is the very good DEATH AND TRANSFIGURATION, 5.10b, 3 pitches and to the right of that is the COALITION OF THE KILLING, 5.9, also 3 pitches. PM me for any more detail you want as approx twice the number of routes exist at the Ibex Crags that are in the guidebook and they haven't appeared on MP yet. Some are pretty good. Mar 1, 2008
I second that about the guidebook as its really useful for anyone who goes down there. Gets you down there and psyched for the quality. We've been really happy this winter with the book supplemented with mp.com but you have to know that there are many other routes that remain unrecorded.

That's one of the coolest things - to go down and head up something with no to little prior knowledge and just make it happen. Mar 2, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You can stay left of Saddlesore the whole way but the gear is a little sketchy... May 7, 2012