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Routes in Newlywed Area

Almost Paradise S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Banging The Bedboards T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devirginized T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saddlesore S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Should've Used a Rubber S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Touchy Feely S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kelly MacLeod and James Garrett, 2002
Page Views: 656 total, 6/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This fully bolted route starts 20 feet to the right of Banging The Bedboards and only a few feet of the fully bolted Saddlesore. A soft touch allows you to slither past the crux to a two bolt belay.

Location

On the right side of the Newlywed Wall just to the right of Saddlesore.

Protection

5 bolts (QDs) to a two bolt belay.

Photos

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Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Protects well through the crux which was nice since my partner and I mistakenly got on this thinking it was the fiddly 5.8 just to the left. Lots of groping around on terrible slopery holds on this route. Bring your slab footwork game for this one! Jan 25, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Very well protected through the cruxy section. You can get a nut or small cam between the first and second bolt if desired. May 7, 2012