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Routes in Anica kuk

Kaca T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karabore S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leva tržiška S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mosoraski S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 350 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 368 total · 8/month
Shared By: rickziegler Ziegler on May 11, 2014
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Description

A great route, especially when you want shade. The end of this route can join with "Brid za veliki čekić (5.9)" to give 900 feet of clean, moderate climbing.
The first pitch of Leva starts with some steep finger and hand crack climbing (bolted) leading to a comfortable belay in a tree. The next pitch is also 5.10a, with an arching traverse leading to a series of flakes above. Fun climbing that reminded me of Yosemite. Pitch 3 is the crux and long (~50m). Lots of bolts protect steep flakes to a definite crux move. Easier above. The next 3 pitches follow a left trending groove with progressively easier pitches.
To climb Brid za veliki, traverse right during the 6th pitch. From the anchor, the first bolt of Brid is visible above. Otherwise, it's possible to climb the first 5 pitches of Leva and bail to the right.

Location

Hike 20 minutes or so from the highest parking lot to where a sign post reads "Anica kuk.". Here cross the stream and follow the marked trail toward "Stup."
The route starts north side of Stup, 100m or so from the toe of the buttress. If you find the plaque marking "Saleski 4c" you're on the right track. Leva starts left of Saleski, after a short class 3 chimney/groove.
We did the marked trail descent from the summit of Anica kuk.

Protection

Bolts. Bolted anchor. We carried some gear but never used it.

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