Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Karabore to Brid za Veliki cecik
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Stup G17-20
|
Domzalski S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Karabore S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Karabore to Brid za Veliki cecik S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Leva trika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Saleski T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 12 pitches |
| FA: | Z. Beslin & J. Gradisar, Unknown |
| Page Views: | 941 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Lotte Meijer on Apr 29, 2019 |
| Admins: |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
If you want to climb the best long moderate route up Anica kuk, this is it. It is incredibly varied, lots of fun, crazy exposed at times and much more consistent than Mosoraski or Velibitaski.
Bring your full arsenal of climbing techniques, a cool head and a small rack if you have it.
It’s technically a combination of two routes, and you could pick any of the routes on Stup to get to “Brid za Veliki cecik”, but for a consistent experience, Karabore is a great choice.
Approach
Follow the signs for Anica kuk, cross the river (staying to the right), follow the red dots and turn right at the sign to Stup. Up a bit of scree, and it’s in the first alcove on the left with the tree.
The route is indicated with a small metal triangle “Karabore 5b” on it, though the most recent guidebook has been kind enough to upgrade it to 5c.
Karabore
P1: 35m, “5a”+4b”, or the 6a next to it. I hope you had a strong coffee before climbing this ‘5a’. The first bolt is 8m up, which is not that problematic, but then you’ll find yourself pulling through a cruxy slopey mini roof, that has you doubt your sanity and the Paklenica gradings for sure. Use the polished bit up on the right side over the roof to get over & clip that second bolt. Afterwards, stay awake for some chimneying, some stellar flakes and alright bolts to a solid anchor. The guidebooks suggests there’s an anchor somewhere in between, but we didn’t find it. If that roof is not to your liking, you could also take the 6a variation to the right of it, which the German girl said was pretty doable.
P2: 35m, 4b+5c. Start up the chimney to a little plateau, and take some easy steps up towards another crack/chimney. Stay to the left, even though those holds on the right side look amazing. Make sure to look around you through all of the chimneys, since you’ll find some sweet flakes and foot placements on the right and left faces throughout. At the top of the second chimney, when you see the water grooves, the crack peters out, but look and you shall find. Move up to the anchor into a small alcove out of the wind.
P3: 40-50m. 5a/5b. Move diagonally right from the alcove, over the water grooves past a couple of bolts. Keep moving right until you see another crack/chimney, but keep following the bolts a bit to the left of if. A tad runout at times, but damn pretty climbing. At the top of the rock are multiple belay anchors. (You can rappel from here with two rappels with a single 60m rope to the base of Stup again)
Though if you want to link, keep going up, past the little tree to the top of Stup. Belay at the couple of bolts there.
Connector Pitch
P1: 25m, 4c. Look up towards the Anica kuk face, and you’ll see another hump. Your goal is to get on top of that. Move across the crest (rappel rings to your right) to the 5 bolt anchor on the left. From there move right, up a “chimney” with two bolts to the single massive ring anchor.
Brid za Veliki ceckik
P1: 18m, “4a”. A crazy, fun and exposed traverse to the left. You can exclaim “This is not a 4!!!” for the umpteenth time, but you should’ve learned by now. While traversing, look down every now to remind yourself you’re still alive, and belay at the solid anchor next to the crack/chimney.
P2: 25m, 4b+&4b. Move up the chimney, past a couple of solid bolts. Then when they run out, move right over a series of smaller flakes, past a rusty piton towards a small tree. A gorgeous pitch, not too difficult. Sweet flakes again, so much fun. Enjoy.
The guidebook has this as two pitches, but there’s no anchor in sight at the top of the 4b+ chimney.
P3. 33m, 5a. Move a bit right and up through the water grooves with some solid foot jams and gorgeous climbing. Then back left again. Clip the bolts at the roof, and keep going to go past/through the roof on the left. Though at 3/4 of it, you can also move over with some lovely holds. Again, up to a proper belay.
P4: 35m, 3. Your first bolt will be about 12m up. Move up the grooves, then veer right. You’ll encounter one or two more bolts until the end of the pitch. Easy climbing.
If you extend your draws (particularly at the anchor), you can link this pitch with the following, with a 70m rope. It’s probably possible to link it with the previous one, though there’ll be more rope drag with the small roof there.
P5: 34m, 5b+. Such a beauty! a gorgeous pitch up a seemingly endless crack. The foot jamming is excellent, though make sure to use the holds on the right and the left when they appear. Hand jamming is near impossible, but there are things…. Try to ignore the somewhat spaced out bolts, keep your head cool, and you’re golden. Belay on the windy peak.
P6: 35m, 4a. Climb up and up and up, until you see a bolt 18m later. Then over the block, sling a tree, and walk over the easy slab to the bottom of a massive boulder. While belaying, look to the little roof/corner on the left in bewilderment, and giggle that you won’t be leading that “5a” pitch next.
P7: 35m, “5a”. The most exposed 5a you’ll ever encounter. Again: a cool head will get you through. Clip that bolt, grab the polished horizontal crack and make sure to place your feet well to get yourself around. You might be expecting stellar holds when you go up and around it. They won’t be that great, but you’ll survive.
Then, since you’ll have done the hardest part already, who cares that the way to the anchor is pretty runout? You could sling that sapling, but perhaps you brought some cams instead. Belay next to the tree.
P8: 30-45m, 4b+. Ah yeah, why not some more runout 4b+? Move up left, past two bolts, using the swell flakes throughout. Then you won’t see any anymore. I moved diagonally up right, though you can also go up left. Belay at a tree. To the right and up is a neat arch, with a couple of small trees that you can belay from. You’ll have a gorgeous view to the Adriatic, and the valley.
Descent
Move up the sharp blocks until you see the red dots, follow them towards the sea, walk through a tiny forest, and then follow them again until you find the cables leading you down.
Prepare for a long, uncomfortable, and sketchy descent along the cables, across the scree, down some more cables, and some more scree, back to the valley bar for ice cream and beers.
Bring your full arsenal of climbing techniques, a cool head and a small rack if you have it.
It’s technically a combination of two routes, and you could pick any of the routes on Stup to get to “Brid za Veliki cecik”, but for a consistent experience, Karabore is a great choice.
Approach
Follow the signs for Anica kuk, cross the river (staying to the right), follow the red dots and turn right at the sign to Stup. Up a bit of scree, and it’s in the first alcove on the left with the tree.
The route is indicated with a small metal triangle “Karabore 5b” on it, though the most recent guidebook has been kind enough to upgrade it to 5c.
Karabore
P1: 35m, “5a”+4b”, or the 6a next to it. I hope you had a strong coffee before climbing this ‘5a’. The first bolt is 8m up, which is not that problematic, but then you’ll find yourself pulling through a cruxy slopey mini roof, that has you doubt your sanity and the Paklenica gradings for sure. Use the polished bit up on the right side over the roof to get over & clip that second bolt. Afterwards, stay awake for some chimneying, some stellar flakes and alright bolts to a solid anchor. The guidebooks suggests there’s an anchor somewhere in between, but we didn’t find it. If that roof is not to your liking, you could also take the 6a variation to the right of it, which the German girl said was pretty doable.
P2: 35m, 4b+5c. Start up the chimney to a little plateau, and take some easy steps up towards another crack/chimney. Stay to the left, even though those holds on the right side look amazing. Make sure to look around you through all of the chimneys, since you’ll find some sweet flakes and foot placements on the right and left faces throughout. At the top of the second chimney, when you see the water grooves, the crack peters out, but look and you shall find. Move up to the anchor into a small alcove out of the wind.
P3: 40-50m. 5a/5b. Move diagonally right from the alcove, over the water grooves past a couple of bolts. Keep moving right until you see another crack/chimney, but keep following the bolts a bit to the left of if. A tad runout at times, but damn pretty climbing. At the top of the rock are multiple belay anchors. (You can rappel from here with two rappels with a single 60m rope to the base of Stup again)
Though if you want to link, keep going up, past the little tree to the top of Stup. Belay at the couple of bolts there.
Connector Pitch
P1: 25m, 4c. Look up towards the Anica kuk face, and you’ll see another hump. Your goal is to get on top of that. Move across the crest (rappel rings to your right) to the 5 bolt anchor on the left. From there move right, up a “chimney” with two bolts to the single massive ring anchor.
Brid za Veliki ceckik
P1: 18m, “4a”. A crazy, fun and exposed traverse to the left. You can exclaim “This is not a 4!!!” for the umpteenth time, but you should’ve learned by now. While traversing, look down every now to remind yourself you’re still alive, and belay at the solid anchor next to the crack/chimney.
P2: 25m, 4b+&4b. Move up the chimney, past a couple of solid bolts. Then when they run out, move right over a series of smaller flakes, past a rusty piton towards a small tree. A gorgeous pitch, not too difficult. Sweet flakes again, so much fun. Enjoy.
The guidebook has this as two pitches, but there’s no anchor in sight at the top of the 4b+ chimney.
P3. 33m, 5a. Move a bit right and up through the water grooves with some solid foot jams and gorgeous climbing. Then back left again. Clip the bolts at the roof, and keep going to go past/through the roof on the left. Though at 3/4 of it, you can also move over with some lovely holds. Again, up to a proper belay.
P4: 35m, 3. Your first bolt will be about 12m up. Move up the grooves, then veer right. You’ll encounter one or two more bolts until the end of the pitch. Easy climbing.
If you extend your draws (particularly at the anchor), you can link this pitch with the following, with a 70m rope. It’s probably possible to link it with the previous one, though there’ll be more rope drag with the small roof there.
P5: 34m, 5b+. Such a beauty! a gorgeous pitch up a seemingly endless crack. The foot jamming is excellent, though make sure to use the holds on the right and the left when they appear. Hand jamming is near impossible, but there are things…. Try to ignore the somewhat spaced out bolts, keep your head cool, and you’re golden. Belay on the windy peak.
P6: 35m, 4a. Climb up and up and up, until you see a bolt 18m later. Then over the block, sling a tree, and walk over the easy slab to the bottom of a massive boulder. While belaying, look to the little roof/corner on the left in bewilderment, and giggle that you won’t be leading that “5a” pitch next.
P7: 35m, “5a”. The most exposed 5a you’ll ever encounter. Again: a cool head will get you through. Clip that bolt, grab the polished horizontal crack and make sure to place your feet well to get yourself around. You might be expecting stellar holds when you go up and around it. They won’t be that great, but you’ll survive.
Then, since you’ll have done the hardest part already, who cares that the way to the anchor is pretty runout? You could sling that sapling, but perhaps you brought some cams instead. Belay next to the tree.
P8: 30-45m, 4b+. Ah yeah, why not some more runout 4b+? Move up left, past two bolts, using the swell flakes throughout. Then you won’t see any anymore. I moved diagonally up right, though you can also go up left. Belay at a tree. To the right and up is a neat arch, with a couple of small trees that you can belay from. You’ll have a gorgeous view to the Adriatic, and the valley.
Descent
Move up the sharp blocks until you see the red dots, follow them towards the sea, walk through a tiny forest, and then follow them again until you find the cables leading you down.
Prepare for a long, uncomfortable, and sketchy descent along the cables, across the scree, down some more cables, and some more scree, back to the valley bar for ice cream and beers.
0 Comments