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Routes in The Roaches Boulder

Escargot V3 6A
Infestation V4 6B
Mites V1 5
Napoleon V3 6A
Roaches V2 5+
Spiders V0 4
Unknown V7 7A+
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 114 total · 2/month
Shared By: atp on Apr 27, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts on the left side of north facing cave. Sit start at pair of sloping scoops, climb up on bad slopers to a good hold at the lip and make a sizable move to a decent hold and follow 'fin' to topout.

Good climbing but be mindful of the good hold at the lip...seems fragile....

Location

North side of boulder, faces the trail and easy to spot (#22 in the oceans 11 guide book)

Protection

2 pads

Photos

atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
  V7
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
  V7
The grade is referenced from the oceans 11 guide book Apr 28, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I could be wrong, but the problem referenced in the book actually refers to the LEFT exit. Same start as you described, but you bust left pretty early, grab a devious-but-awesome-looking thin crimp, and do some very, very hard presses on sloping holds. Way, way harder than V7, and judging by the look of the photo, full of moss at the moment. Apr 29, 2014
Andy's correct. I don't remember it being way, way harder than V7 though. I also don't remember doing it, or who did it first, or why it didn't get a name. So I guess I don't remember much. I do remember cleaning out the poison oak at the base (there used to be a GIANT plant) and scrubbing moss off the face to find a series of crappy holds. Looks like she could use another scrubbing. Apr 30, 2014
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
  V7
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
  V7
Interesting I looked for a left exit, but it seemed the most logical line was to go from the cave to the fragile ledge up and 'left' to the fin, I was guessing that the more direct exit would have been up to the right of the fin. As far as climbing the left face (inbetween the cave line and the V0 'oak,anyone?' listed, that looks tough) good work to who climb that line! Anyway thanks for the info, let me know how I can update this problem. May 6, 2014

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