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Routes in Wall 5

A Beer, Simon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Portrait of Me? Breathtaking! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ankle-biters T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ant Spasms T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Couture (Seam) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gently! Gently! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gizecht (Face) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'll Have a Kir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I'm On My Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Let's Catch Our Breath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Madame Longrée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monsieur Cheval T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Postman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Threading the Needle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Chris Wing, 4/21/12
Page Views: 403 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 21, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The very first route put up in all of Panic Town. Solid gear on hard, carbon-rich sandstone with fun moves, the crux coming at the odd, bulgy bits about halfway up.



Take the double-crack line on the left side of the lower section of Wall 5 (before you need to scramble up the boulders and to the landing at the tree). Dedicate yourself to the left crack that starts to thin as the right crack moves further right and into bush & yucca. If you're climbing at your grade, don't be stingy with your gear before the wavy bulge sections. Good edges and pedestals will be forthcoming.

Protection

Standard rack (a #4 will help you build a better anchor at the top). It's a toss-up at this point to either walk off down and right or wander along the top to the left to rap. Probably best to walk off if the bushes haven't been trimmed recently.

Photos

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