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Routes in Wall 5

A Beer, Simon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
A Portrait of Me? Breathtaking! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ankle-biters T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ant Spasms T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Couture (Seam) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Gently! Gently! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gizecht (Face) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'll Have a Kir T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
I'm On My Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Let's Catch Our Breath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Madame Longrée T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monsieur Cheval T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Postman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Threading the Needle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney
Page Views: 192 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on May 11, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is the semi-obvious and recently cleaned roof/corner at the far left section of Wall 5. (Not to be confused with the even more obvious and not recently cleaned roof of "I Can See Something Moving" to the left.) A surprisingly fun and almost safe-feeling free solo.

The starting crack of "I'll Have a Kir." The oak branches have been cut back and you can actually see where you're supposed to go from the ground now.

Start on the easy, inviting crack that takes you to a large ledge popping out over the oak tree. Continue up a few more moves to a smaller ledge below the recess and the horn. Get up on the horn and then move up into the chimney-ish wide crack below the chockstone. Get over the chockstone and finish up on top. You can follow the loose trail along the top to the right and then over to the rap station, or bushwhack a bit to the left and downclimb loose stuff to get back to the base.

Protection

It will probably take decent gear throughout (a #4 for sure).

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