Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mastigouche - North ampitheatre (Jedi)

Aqua azura T WI5-6
Brutus T WI5-6
L'Ogresse T,TR WI5+
Le Cigare du pharaon T WI4+
Le cote clair de la force T,TR WI5+
Le cote obscur de la force T,TR WI4 M6 PG13
Patte folle T,TR WI4-5
Quatre pattes T,TR WI5-
Rampe glacée T,TR WI4+ M5 R
Zero Theorem T WI4+ M6-7
Type: Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 100 ft
FA: Yan Mongrain, Souren Beylerian, Jan 2005
Page Views: 422 total, 9/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Mar 10, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

There's a few good blade jams on the way up, as well as a lot of crappy/useless ones.
Find your way up the corner, stemming when you can and just grunting it.
Be careful of the hanging ice, the ice in this area is generally brittle and a little push can snap off some big chunks.

I advise to rap down to scope out the pro (a few pieces are hidden from below) and clean out some dangerous daggers.

Location

The obvious overhanging corner

Protection

Trad pro, nuts and cams, didn't see gear over 1.5"
3-4 screws for the exit/top.

Rap from the top, 70m rope is fine.

Photos

rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  WI4-5 M5-6 PG13
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  WI4-5 M5-6 PG13
Did it again last weekend in fat fat fat conditions. The mixed gets easier [M5] but the ice gets harder [WI5]. When the upper icicle gets really big it forces you out of the corner and onto the ice earlier. Its fun in both lean and fat conditions. Feb 23, 2016
rocknice2
Montreal, Quebec
  WI4-5 M5-6 PG13
rocknice2   Montreal, Quebec
  WI4-5 M5-6 PG13
In the condition that I did it the ice was wi4 but in the guide book it says wi5+ which suggests that maybe we had fat ice. Biggest cam I used was .75 c4. It may accept a #1c4. There is some hidden gear [.4c4] on the high right that may be impossible to see if your not in the right stance.
Small to medium gear. Mar 10, 2014