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Routes in Raiden Area

Big Cheesy V5 6C
Dunkin' Donuts (Direct) V7-8 7B
Dunn Woody V8 7B
Grateful Dead V4 6B
Kane V7 7A+
Kraken, The V4 6B R
Nonfat Milk V7- 7A+
Raiden V6 7A
Reduced Fat Milk V7 7A+
Taking the Stairs V9- 7C
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,070 total, 66/month
Shared By: Emerson Takahashi on Feb 22, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Excellent, steep climbing on a salad bowl of holds.
Start on jugs, move to an "ok" sloper, then move up a series of blocky crimps to an easy top out.

Raiden is a great example in proper footwork, and if you don't have good beta or technique, the whole problem can feel difficult.

Location

The Raiden problem is just to the right of the Kraken. You'll see a rounded rock with a cave on the uphill side. Start all the way down on the sculpted jugs.

To get down, just walk off the back of the boulder

Protection

Just a couple of pads and a spotter will be good.
Landing slopes downward a little bit...

Photos

Michael Schmenk
Sandy, UT
 
Michael Schmenk   Sandy, UT
 
Yeah no way this is V8. It took me a while to figure out beta that worked, but once I did it went down pretty easy. Aug 17, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Emerson-

You could be right, though I've seen recent videos with people calling it v8. But, it could be another classic case of Joe's Valley grade confusion. I really really hope the new guidebook is more accurate and consistent. Jun 8, 2014
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
 
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
 
Christian,
You are correct that it has been considered v8, but I think it's the other way around- a hold broke AND THEN it became v6.
It does seem to require good beta, so that also might be where the grade might come from...

Either way it's a great route, certainly a must-do for the grade if you're in Left Fork Jun 4, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
A lot of people have been calling this v8 (on Sendage for instance), because apparently a hold has broken on it since the guide came out. I haven't gotten on it yet, so I can't contribute an opinion, but I thought it would be worth adding this info to the discussion.

Though from the sounds of it Emerson, you cruised it! Nice work! May 23, 2014