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Routes in Raiden Area

Big Cheesy V5 6C
Dunkin' Donuts (Direct) V7-8 7B
Dunn Woody V7 7A+
Grateful Dead V4 6B
Kane V7 7A+
Kraken, The V4 6B R
Nonfat Milk V7- 7A+
Raiden V6 7A
Reduced Fat Milk V7 7A+
Taking the Stairs V9- 7C
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Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 660 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brett Bloxom on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start sitting on a big right hand pocket/undercling and left hand on a worse pocket to the left. Move slightly up through a pretty positive sloping crimp rail and a strange and somewhat tweaky split finger pocket/crimper/sloper/pinch on the arete up and right (hard to describe this hold, but you will know it when you see it). Grab one of several options of slopers then move up to the good holds above. Keep it together through the awkward and sandy topout.

This is a great problem with powerful and insecure moves above a good landing. Looks like there are several ways to do it.

Location

Just up canyon from the main Raiden area gully. Clearly visible from the road. Maybe 30 feet off the right side of the road when heading up canyon. There is a good parking spot on the opposite side of the road just across from the boulder.

Protection

Two pads and a spotter.

Photos

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Fun climbing but very fragile up top. The feet at the lip and flakes from above are ready to break Nov 26, 2017

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