Type: Boulder, 13 ft (4 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,140 total · 15/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on May 22, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This problem is one of the most debated grades in Joe's Valley, especially since it is somewhat of an eliminate. The direct version was given v10 in the guidebook, but the grade seems to be settling in somewhere from v8 to soft v9. The other version seems to be around v6-ish. While clearly not v10, this climb is a tricky one to grade because the difficulty will vary depending on one's wingspan. Ultimately, what gets lost in all of this discussion is that this is a fantastic problem with really fun and enjoyable movement.

Start sitting in a pit, with both hands on a right facing sidepull. Pull off the ground and head left and up towards some good underclings. Make a huge move from the underclings with either the left or right hand to some slopers. Figure out a way to reach the good jugs and top out directly above.

The 'direct' version is somewhat of an eliminate as you can can traverse further left from the good underclings and reach some sidepulls that make reaching the top out holds easier. However, I feel that the direct version (even if an eliminate) is a lot more fun and worth posting as a climb unto itself.

With that in mind, it would be ideal if people contribute star ratings and grades that are for this specific 'direct' version and not for the other version, since the 'direct' version is what most people climb. Feel free to post the 'indirect' version up if you feel strongly that it deserves its own listing.

Location

Located on the backside of Raiden boulder. When looking at 'Raiden', head left towards the backside of the boulder.

Protection

A couple of pads are nice since the landing is tiered with two distinct sections.

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