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Routes in The Pope's Nose
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Arkansas Route T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 |
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Brain Damage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Central Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0+ |
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Chalice Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Contraceptive Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3- |
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Lulu The Magical Mule S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thunder Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.57016, -107.40019 |
| FA: | Daniel McCool, Brad Esser, JP (can't remember his last name)?, and Britt Basset |
| Page Views: | 1,332 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Trout on Feb 4, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Introduction
This was the fourth route up the main face of the Pope's Nose. One member of the first ascent team, Dan McCool, wrote an article in Summit Magazine (Nov. 1982). The team from Arizona had a friend, Britt Bassette, who owned a horse ranch nearby and helped get the gear in. McCool didn't mention the names of his partners though.
Daniel McCool described the Pope's Nose as: "...blessed with long vertical cracks and exfoliating flakes" and "The rock definitely had that bold, clean Yosemite look...." They fixed ropes and got rained on every day.
Route Description
Thunder Road climbs the "...left cheek of the main face..." and "The first 600 feet provided beautiful free climbing."
The following pitch by pitch beta uses Dan McCool's words from his article in Summit Magazine.
P1: easy.
P2: challenging.
P3: bisected by a roof bypassed with tricky face climbing.
P4: airy, aesthetic, disappears over a roof and followed cracks and flakes for a full rope.
P5: perverse aid over roof and up rotten chimney, then free for 100 feet.
P6: ends at cramped stance in chimney.
P7: jam deep in chimney to big ledge.
P8: strenuous offwidth to summit.
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