Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in The Pope's Nose
|Arkansas Route T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2|
|Brain Damage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Central Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0+|
|Chalice Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2|
|Contraceptive Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3-|
|Lulu The Magical Mule S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Thunder Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Glen Banks, Mark Dalen, Paul Horak, Ken Trout, June, 1980|
|Page Views:||1,847 total, 22/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Jan 16, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Introduction, Description, & EquipmentINTRODUCTION
After having to bail off the first ascent of the Hallucinogen Wall, this route was a consolation prize for me. My luck changed from rain-cursed to sunny when I met three climbers from New Mexico who were experienced Yosemite wall climbers. Even better, they all knew how to hand drill in granite.
On our way to the Los Pinos trail head, we stopped near Vallecito Lake to hire a wrangler. That same afternoon, we hiked in half way to a trail-side bivouac. The packer met us the next day at the main campsite, located along Flint Creek, a bit upstream and past the Popes Nose. Ropes were fixed over several days and we took turns with the pitches.
Bring thin pitons, hooks, mashies, bat-hooks and modern cams to #4. Be ready to back up the old bolts and in that case maybe some ropes to fix or a ledge. And the desire to make the second ascent?