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Routes in Alberta Falls Wall

Alberta Falls Wall (in winter) T M8
Duncan Donuts T M9 PG13
Mawty's Big Day T WI3 M4-5
Unknown? T WI3 M3-4
Type: Trad, Mixed, 400 ft, Grade III
FA: First Winter Ascent: Josh Wharton and Tommy Caldwell (1/7/14)
Page Views: 713 total, 15/month
Shared By: j wharton on Jan 30, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This makes for a really good winter route. It has a nice quick approach, and it is pleasant even when the wind is nuking. I asked Josh Gross for permission before dry tooling on this route, and he was psyched for us to give it a shot. Thanks, Josh! That said, this route, and the area in general has mossy, sometimes chossy rock, so it'll make a great "Scottish" venue in the years to come. The first two pitches of this route look like good summer rock climbing as well.

Here is a link to JG's summer notes for more details and a few notes for a winter ascent below.

P1: Some easy cracks and then spicy slab climbing in crampons leads right. It's a tad runout, so be heads up here. With a long sling on the 0.4 C4, I was able to link without drag into the "P2" roof. Bomber gear out the roof, with M8-ish climbing, gains a fixed anchor on a sloping ledge.

P2: Very fun hero hooks with great pro up the twin seams lead to a belay off a tree. There was some sublimated ice getting up to the tree, so I bet earlier in the season there might be some significant ice, M5/6-ish.

P3: Rambling, face climbing with the occasional hummock stick leads up and right to a final short, steep, dirty crack, M5/6-ish. (There are a few bail options to the left on this pitch.)

Finish with some 4th class to the top of the cliff.

TC and I walked north, and scrambled down the narrow gully on the right side of the wall. This is probably easier, quicker, and warmer than bringing a second rope and bothering with the raps.


See the summer description.


See the summer description.


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