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Routes in Bull Market
|Leveraged Buyout S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||M. Tupper, '92|
|Page Views:||165 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Jan 19, 2014|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe book gives this thing 5.11, but something crucial has broken off and it is definitely much harder, if not impassable at this point. The rock on the lower portion of the route is spooky soft and you never really feel comfortable clipping the bolts on this one. Higher up, something crucial is missing, blocking an easy path to the anchor.
This route sits in the gully on the right- it is the second route in from the entrance. Clip the high first bolt and then take the right hand line of bolts up, generally staying right of the bolts.
LocationStart in the gully below the low ledge- mantle onto the scary ledge covered in bad rock, then cast off on the right hand line of bolts.
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