Medusa

Okay, I want to give this route more stars, but the quality of the rock was not ideal - many grainy sections and a few crumbly edges and pockets. Also, pitons...you just never know!

Begin by climbing Resurrection: the first piton is a bit hard to clip (a rough sequence to read getting through the bottom dihedral), then a good power section through decent holds to get to the next piton...I backed this one up with a small stopper. The next moves, above the third piton, are great fun and involve a cool traverse to a rounded flake and then up to the slot were Resurrection breaks left and Medusa right.

Work the cool slot and get a higher stance than you think to punch out right, gastoning and working up the right leaning seam and steaming like mad. The seam opens up to a happy size a few feet out, but the feet remain hard.

If the rock were better this would be a classic, but the rock quality for now is just too unworthy. Also, pitons...you just never know!

Same start as Resurrection, but go right at the seam split.

3 pitons for the start (I backed up the second with a stopper and it looks like a #2 or #3 metolius cam could back up the third). Then cams, metolius size 3 - 8, and a set of nuts...there's a great placement in the slot were the routes break.