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Routes in Wall of Biblical Fallacies

Blood of Christ T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Burning Bush T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Fissure of Men T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Medusa T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nailed to The Cross T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Resurrection T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Walk on Water T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt and Paul Schweizer, February 1987
Page Views: 1,265 total, 9/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on May 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This face route is left of Burning Bush, and identified by three newish bolts protecting the lower section. This is one of the few routes on the Wall of Biblical Fallacies that looks doable.

Protection

Bolts and thin gear. Bolted anchor about 55 feet up (shared with Burning Bush)

Photos

Alex, Thanks for your interest to maintain this route. Thirty year old bolts should definitely be replaced. I can't comment on where they should go given the current state of the route because I don't specifically remember the moves from 1987. I do recall the stopper, which is natural pro that should remain a part of the climb. Sounds like you have carefully considered the bolt placements. Mar 4, 2017
Adam Stackhouse    
 
Alex,

I will share your opinion with the FA party. Thanks for posting. Mar 4, 2017
This route is on the list to be rebolted with 1/2" hardware...once the permit is issued (TBD).

Also, the route has changed considerably since the FA and the aluma-head just needs to go. I have a proposal:

I would like to pull the aluma-head AND the 3rd bolt...and add a new bolt just below where the head is currently. See pics both above and below. For most climbers and definitely shorter than 5'10", you will clip the head (maybe 3rd bolt too) from where my left hand is (a rather hollow flake best used only for the move). The "new bolt" would be clip-able from matched hands (where my right hand is in the below pic - it's a more solid flake). If the upper flake blows while clipping the head - you might deck. If the head fails going for the 3rd bolt, you might deck. The route will flow much better without having to mess with those two pieces at all. There's an easy to place bomber big nut at the mantel to the anchor - the new last bolt would be at your foot while placing it. (holds are still loosening/breaking, unfortunately)


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Mar 3, 2017
Gear beta: A #12 BD Stopper, concave taper facing right, is a very reliable piece at the top...in my opinion.

Hadn't done this in 18-20 years. Definitely a little harder than the original rating, less a couple holds or something like that. A good short, powerful and techy route at the grade. For sure 12a. Main thing though, have a great belayer, keep your shit together and don't blow any clips, bust a hold, etc. I wouldn't put a whole lotta faith on that big aluminum head, although it sure feels good to clip it before another move to the bolt. All 3 bolts appear solid (3/8" Rawl sleeve) with Metolius hangers. Funny thing though, this route is still "entry-level" for this wall...

Reardon soloed this rig? ... Rad (Sick)!!! Feb 10, 2016
El Pollo Loco
San Diego, CA
El Pollo Loco   San Diego, CA
Route seems to be cleaned up nicely and the rock is good. There's a fixed bashee between bolts 2 & 3 that feels nice to clip but the 3rd bolt is only 1' above it so either way it'll still be safe with or without it there. Top mantle feels nice with a purple totem or BD .4/.5 offset cam. Fun safe climb. Nov 12, 2014
Drewsky  
This route is indeed doable and I highly recommend it. While some holds are friable, the rock is generally high quality and the protection good. There is some fixed gear, I believe, between bolts three and four. The mantle above bolt four can be protected by natural gear, although I think the fall is relatively safe (double check the validity of this statement). Cool setting, great route. Nov 9, 2008