All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks > Park View Dome

Chicken Dance

Name: Chicken Dance
Rating: 2.8

5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British

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Routes in Park View Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abert's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Algo T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Alpinista T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Carrion Climbing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cathartes Aura S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chase the Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Chicken Dance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Heads High S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Heads Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Hey Ranger! T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	It’s Not Much of a Tail T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Learn to Fly S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lost at Sea T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Raisin’ in the Sun S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Shared Illusions S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Singing Chicken T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Vista Perdida S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	39.5176, -105.3997
FA:	Dave Montgomery, Mike Morin, 8/12
Page Views:	5,395 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Zach Wahrer on Jan 7, 2014
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This has fun climbing on finger buckets and jugs up a nice slab.

P1 is 5.4 with good gear most of the way, although some of it can be spaced out a bit. I slung some chickenheads as well. The climbing is easy and fun. You are aiming for a pod about 120' up and right of where you started. The pod/ledge has a flaring crack in the back that makes for a great belay. There is another pod to the left of this one, so make sure you're at the right one. There is a bolt on a headwall about 15' up and right of the correct pod.

P2 is 5.5 with the crux being the headwall just off the belay. Clip the bolt on your way past, and run it out on the slab above. Good gear comes shortly after. There are lots of jugs and finger buckets up more fun slab. Belay at the top of the formation from a tree.

Walk to your right, paralleling the gully and descend from the fixe traditional anchor (single chain connecting two offset bolts) atop of Heads Up.

Location

On the right side of Parkview Dome, go up the hill until you come to the entrance of the corridor that is formed by the Ranch Hand formation. Chicken Dance will be directly on your left. It starts on a wavy portion of slab with several small cracks visible 15-20' up.