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Routes in The Conundrums

Cyclops S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
El Pirata S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Malinche S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
New Ape Man, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pitch Black S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rattler, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Raven, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sin Soul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 800 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Marko Steffen, Mehgan Curry & Kevin Nicastro
Page Views: 5,263 total · 94/month
Shared By: rocknice2 on Jan 4, 2014
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

Climbs a long black streak to the top of the wall. Varied climbing on good rock with long pitches. There are a couple of blocks on the last pitch with "skull & cross bones" stenciled to them. All the belays are comfy ledges.
P1, 5.9+ 50m
P2, 5.10+ 35m
P3, 5.9 25m
cable traverse 5m [combine with 3rd pitch]
P4, 5.10 35m
P5, 5.9 25m
P6, 5.10- 50m

Rappels [1st is from the top]
1: 33m [to 1st mid station]
2: 36m [we cam up short with a 70m rope, suggest simulrap to get extra stretch]
3: 35m [to top of cable]
4: 25m [top of P2]
4?: an 80m might make it to the 2nd mid station?? in which case the next rap could go to the 3rd mid station??
5: 35m [to top of P1]
6: 20m [to 3rd mid station]
7: 30m to ground

Location

Start at name plate.
Right of 'The New Ape Man'
Left of ' Mexican Radio'

Protection

70 meter rope mandatory!!!!!
Bolts and anchors
Chains on the rap stations.
note there a intermidiate rap stations don't confuse them as belays.
Marcelo Gzz
Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
 
Marcelo Gzz   Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
 
One of the most funny multipith ever done. It has all kind of rock from slabs to dihiedral. Well bolted!! a few lose rocks here and there because it needs to be visited more often.

Firt pitch: good to warm up,
Second pitch: the crux is right after standing in a palm tree with a few crimps to a good hole at the left.
third pitch: a little dhiedral to the left then move to the right to a a slab with some nice moves.
Fouth pitch: the tricky one! great moves with hidden smalls holds, with a little patience you will find some small-medium holds.
fifth pitch: Good easy dhiedral
Sixth pitch: long one with some lose rocks here and there.


Congrats!! Apr 29, 2014
Harry Netzer
Roxbury, CT
 
Harry Netzer   Roxbury, CT
 
Sick, sustained, hard 10 climbing. Avoid the manky old bolts. I went for one on p2 and found myself on very difficult terrain! Jan 16, 2015
BrianWS
  5.10+
BrianWS  
  5.10+
Awesome and sustained. Some awful rock quality on the upper 2 pitches, most of which is very clearly marked.

Really oddly bolted. You can clip 3 bolts from a single stance at one moment, and then have 20 foot spacing over fairly difficult terrain. Jan 19, 2015
Tim Fry
Charlotte NC
 
Tim Fry   Charlotte NC
 
P1 50m, pass up an intermediate belay.
P2 33m, belay before dihedral.
P3 25m, can be linked with p2. Set belay after cable traverse.
P4 35m, a bit tricky. Extendables useful, especially if linking.
P5 20m? short dihedral, could easily be linked with p4.
P6 50m, pass up an intermediate rap station & take it to the palm tree.

Second the comment about strange bolting, but REALLY fun movement.

Rap according to description instructions. We had no problems getting our 70m to reach the anchors.

My buddy Mitch linked this in 3 pitches (1&2, 3$&4, 5&6) with just 2 meters of simul at the start. Jan 21, 2015
Morgan F. Smith
Texas
  5.11a
Morgan F. Smith   Texas
  5.11a
Awesome climb! Great warm-up multipitch for harder climbs in the Potrero, stays in shade until about 2 or 3 in the afternoon in the summer. A 70 meter rope will suffice for all belays. The 4th pitch may be considered 11a imo Sep 7, 2015
nicktucker
Portland, OR
 
nicktucker   Portland, OR
 
Awesome route! The 2nd pitch is NOT 50m, and calling it a dihedral is a stretch at best. It's a flake... Definitely recommend simul-rapping, we barely made it to one of the rap stations with a 70 while simul-rapping (I think it was the 4th). Oct 5, 2015
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
 
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
 
I'd give it 4 starts except the route needs loose rock trundled, and rap anchors sorted. We took an extra rope for descent, but another party had real trouble with rope length and actually untied to down climb. Not a great option still 500'+ off the deck.

Otherwise, great multipitch. Second pitch is 5 stars! Feb 18, 2016
20 kN    
Great route. I'd give it 3.5 stars. This is one of the more sustained 5.10s in EPC and it's totally worth doing. Be sure to bring a 70m or two ropes as a 60m wont work. P2 is sustained and fantastic, lead it! I dident feel like the upper 5.10d was 5.10d. Either P2 is 5.11- or P4 is not 5.10+.

Also, it looks like the bolts on this route have been replaced, but the old bolts remain. It would be great if someone would bring an adjustable wrench up with them and remove the old bolts as almost every pitch has old bolts that need removal. Jan 13, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Stellar route. Everything from sustained pitches, overly well bolted, great views and clean rock. 1 pitch (pitch 5 I think?) has some lose chockstones, but great P Chico quality. No joke about needing a 70m. Jan 28, 2017
This is most likely my favorite climb in Potrero. It is varied and the movement is beautiful. Its a mix of sport and trad movement and I thought the whole climb could be called 5.10 +/-. Jan 10, 2018
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
As of January 2018, all the bad bolts have been removes and only the good ones remain. Rapping the route indeed requires a 70m rope, but we thankfully didn't have to do anything funky to reach our anchors: 70m was sufficient with the stretch produced by the body weight of a single climber. Jan 23, 2018
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Super fun line, closely bolted after Pitch One. 10D pitch is full value for a couple of bolts. Rest of the climb is lovely and flows well. Read the rap instructions before you climb. Also reconsider the climb if there are many parties above you. We waited an hour or so on the ground before we started (two parties above us) and "enjoyed" a almost 2 hour delay at the top of P3 and P5 while the parties above rapped or moved slowly as they finished the climb. (I'm not complaining...it was our choice to go up with two parties above us. Just warning you!) Feb 28, 2018
L L
L L  
Approach: You have 2 options: Go left and around The Wave to the base up a steep trail.

If you head straight for the black streak you'll run into The Wave. If you'd like, you can just climb up Pansy Cap (An easy 5.6). IMO, the direct line up Pansy Cap is a shorter and quicker way to get to the base. Rapping or down climbing this one would get you down quicker too. Apr 9, 2018

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