Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 530 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rob P. on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: MAKB, Nate Ball, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Fun route that is sustained most of the way up. (5.10, 5.11, 5.10).

Location

On the conundrums, there is a section with 3 bolted lines within 20-30 feet from each other. This one is the furthest left.

Protection

Bolted all the way up with 3 rap stations. 60m rope is fine.

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John Hovell
San Francisco, California
 
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
 
You can link all 3 pitches with a 70m rope making one really fun marathon 220+ foot sustained 5.10-5.11 technical face pitch (remember to knot the end of your rope!). If doing so sling the anchor on the first anchor long and the first bolt of p2 long as well (neither is cruxy) and you won't have any drag. 23 quickdraws total. If you're 1-2 draws short you could bail off right ~8m below the final anchors and use the Rattler anchor and only miss sone 5.6 juggy slab at the top. If breaking up the pitches, the only non-hanging belay is at the top of p1.

I would rate the pitches
P1: 5.10b, 60 feet
P2: 5.11a, 75 feet (excellent pitch! sustained!)
P3: 5.10a, 90 feet

This is mostly from memory but think the lengths are about right. Great climb, great way to pass the time when pitch black is a cluster. Jan 2, 2017