Type: Trad, 2250 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dan Briley, Todd Kincaid
Page Views: 1,129 total · 19/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Dec 24, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


P.1) Start in a shallow right facing dihedral at the next crack to the right of Big Sky. After 10' move left and follow the crack that forms the left side of the rock stack that made the dihedral. Go up to a ledge and through a short chimney then go left across sloper ledges to a crack (Big Sky) and up to the large owl cove.200' 5.5
P.2) Angle out the owl cove on the crack to the right. After 40' follow a crack that diverges left, peters out to face, and straight up to a nice ledge at 200'. Simul climb or short pitch 40' to the next ledge and base of the white/black dihedral. 240' 5.5
P.3) Climb the dihedral past a steep section. Belay at a sloper stance before the trees when the crack bends onto the right side of the huge pillar that forms the first half of the climb. 180' 5.7
P.4) Climb out left onto the center or so of the pillar. Near the end of a rope length there is a belay stance on the right side of the face, run out but easy. 200' 5.4
P.5) Climb straight up and angle to the left side of the pillar. The last 15' is a pro-less head wall that caps the pillar. Where the slab meets the head wall go around the left side of the pillar onto a hidden ramp/ledge with protection. 200' 5.5
From the top of this pillar go up the gully behind until an exposed discontinuous ledge goes back left across a cliff onto the main ramp that separates First Creek Slabs from the Labyrinth Wall and then down to the large pine tree and campsite that mark the rappels to the wash.
P.6) Start behind the pine tree. To the right of a right facing chimney/offwidth, climb an hourglass shaped flake up to the crack that tarts 30' up. When the crack eases off and widens, angle up and right across easy run out slabs to a small pine tree on a ledge at the base of an awesome dihedral. 200' 5.9
P.7) Climb the dihedral passing a camouflaged microwave sized loose block to a weakness and small ledge on the right. 100' 5.10
P.8) Go right, into the chimney on the backside of the dihedral, climb up about 80' and exit the chimney to the right on a crack that becomes a small ramp leading to the large bushy ledge. This and the next pitch likely take the same line as The Guinness Book. 175' 5.9
P.9) From the bottom right side of this ledge, traverse 15' right to a crack. Follow this crack (which becomes the right side of the huge channel) up past a couple trees and belay at a comfortable stance when the crack widens. 180' 5.8
P.10) Leave the crack to the left and face climb the prow next to the crack with some gear for 40' or so then angle left to the base of a shallow right facing dihedral that begins at a head wall. Climb the dihedral 40-50' getting some shaky RPs and TCUs. When you realize the climbing is pro-less 5.10, step left onto the arete where its only pro-less 5.9 (this is a 50-60' run out). Belay on a ledge that forms the bottom of a large rectangular recess in the center of the channel. 200' 5.10
P.11) From the left end of the belay ledge, climb left into the crack round the corner. Follow till the end of the rope and belay on a comfortable but small ledge to the right. 200' 5.9
P.12) Follow easy discontinuous cracks and slabs up and right to the top at the center of the huge channel. 200' 5.7


This climb starts at the wash and the first half shares the same line as Lady Luck, with the exception of the first 1.5 and last pitches, then from the main ramp goes mostly up the center of the channel that divides Labyrinth Wall.


stoppers, cams up to #4Camalot


On the Wind
DesertDan   On the Wind
Todd and I met for the first time on the day we put up the route in October '98. We left my house in Blue Diamond for the climb at 8am and were back around 3am the next morning. We finished the last two pitches with headlamps after an idealistic Red Rock day. The only reason we made the top is because Todd finished leading the 10th pitch after I backed off from first crappy, then lack of gear. While he was leading the pitch and about 40' above his last worthless RP, his feet popped off but he managed to hold on and not fall, in which he would have certainly hit the slab below. I was glad for his commitment because we went sans a bolt kit and I only brought a single set of cams and stoppers. He had told me on the phone he was new to climbing and could only climb up to 5.8. Fortunately his sand bagging trumped mine in which I assured him that it would be very unlikely to encounter anything harder than 5.8 on the wall. We decided to finish off with the summit of Indecision Peak where the winds went from nonexistent at the top of the climb to so windy at the peak, we felt we could body windsurf. Our intended decent was down the east nose of Indecision Peak to the backside of Spring Mt. SP. At the crest of the East Summit we missed the face and ended up down climbing/rappelling the large gully at the mouth of First Creek. Dec 24, 2013
Hey Dan, Why wait so long to post this thing? Sounds like a good adventure, especially with a stranger. Dec 25, 2013
On the Wind
DesertDan   On the Wind
The main reason is I don't like spending time on the computer. Also, I've heard that some of the routes I've done have had bolts added. So I thought if people are going to be doing that sort of thing, at least they should be fully aware of what they are doing and this spurred me to share info on routes I participated on. Especially, as has been mentioned, you can't always tell if someone has already climbed through. I'm personally disappointed that it seems to be common practice to add bolts to known, established climbs these days, such as Hot Flash or Tunnel Vision. So, I decided to take a more active role in posterity of the climbing community. Also, I now carry a bolt removal and patch kit :) Dec 25, 2013
Right on. What do you use to remove bolts? And were bolts added to your route, or just trade routes like Tunnel and Hot flash that you would prefer not to see retro'd? Dec 26, 2013
On the Wind
DesertDan   On the Wind
Very basic, a double box end wrench, sturdy wire hook and ElmerÂ’s glue. This only works for Rawl 5-piece style bolts and if it requires more than this, it also needs to be motivational enough circumstances for me to come back. The glue is mixed as needed with washed sand/dirt found on site. Holes patched in this manner 20+ years ago here in Southern NV are still sound and very difficult to see, even if you know exactly where to look.

Some friends and I went to repeat it last year and found that a variation of this line and Worried Wives Club had been climbed here with belay bolts and we were able to rappel from the top to the ground. Too bad I didn't find MP earlier and lesson learned not to sit on info.

I'm not a fan of retrobolting nor am I a fan of pulling bolts. It's a gray area. When asked, I reluctantly voted yes to the first rappel bolts on Cat in the Hat after watching multiple people take turns rapping off the climb from a scrub oak branch smaller than my thumb. I had no problem pulling lead bolts added to Rainbow Wall, Our Father, and others. But some I've pulled left me feeling... not quite right about it. So I tend to leave things alone and reserve action for what I feel are the most egregious situations. Dec 28, 2013
I am loving the fact that there have been bolts up there for years in light of the discussion happening on the main labyrinth page. Too funny. So essentially your route became part of at least 2 other parties' FA, worried wives club and whatever the bolted line is, or is your route now just bolted, pitch for pitch? Hard to put that together from the comments. Jan 2, 2014