Tiers of the Setting Sun
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1300 ft, 8 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||FA: Andrew Gomoll, Karsten Duncan - Sept '06|
|Page Views:||112 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Gomoll on Nov 16, 2007|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis adventurous line, when combined with any of the First Creek Slab routes is one of the longest lines in Red Rocks providing 2500+ feet of boltless climbing. The route is similar in nature to Resolution Arete but with better rock quality.
The first pitch begins to the right of a striking hand and finger crack. The start begins about 30ft to the right of a crack with many huecos.
P1 5.9 Take the crack to a ledge at 30 ft with a large bush. Continue up the chimney to a right facing corner, pull a 5.9 roof and belay on a sloping ledge. (55m)
P2 5.9 Continue ascending this corner as it widens to an offwidth using the crack and edges on the face to a belay in a sheltered alcove under a huge block on the left. (55m) This pitch is R unless you bring big gear.
P3 5.9+ Continue up and right through an easy squeeze to a 5.6PG ramp. Continue up the ramp to a stance below a spectacular dead vertical 5.9+ hand and fist crack with lots of lichen. Follow the crack up and onto a ramp to the best belay stance you can find at the end of your rope. (55m)
P4 5.9 Continue up the ramp and onto some 5.7R face climbing on poor rock past a bush through a 10 ft section of 5.8 crack to a large ledge with a tree. Climb some awkward 5.9 moves to get to another ledge 25 ft higher on the left. The final headwall will stretch above.
P5 5.11 or A1/5.10 PG13 Take the mossy finger to hand crack starting on this ledge that splits the spectacular headwall to a good size bush for the belay (55m).
P6 5.10+R From the belay traverse down and right on 5.6R face moves and traverse right 50 ft (no pro!) to gain a 5.7 crack. Continue up the crack as the difficulty increases to 10+ and the gear options decrease. The crack turns to stemming then OW/ Squeeze and ledges out at the base of an OW/Squeeze. (~60m)
P7 5.9+ Climb the OW/Squeeze to some 5.7R face climbing to reach a ledge (~60m)
P8 5.5 Scramble up 5.5 terrain for 30m to the top.