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Routes in The Shadows
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Gray Pilgrim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shadowfax T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Solar Eclipse S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Steel Gray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Twilight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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When Darkness Falls TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett, Paul Bodnar, Ken Young (2004) |
| Page Views: | 869 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Klammer on Nov 22, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
Gray Pilgrim is a fun route up great rock requiring a range of climbing skills.
Begin in a large corner just right of "Twilight" with a line of bolts visible on the slab above. Climb the corner and step right when possible to clip the first of 5 bolts. Follow the right bolt line up the steep and thin slab (crux) to the arete and climb to the two-bolt anchor via a finger crack on the right side of the arete.
From the anchor on P1, look up and right past 2 overlapping bulges of rock. Climb up and right on easy moves to get into a set of off-vertical flaring cracks and some underclings. Work right on good footholds but with no good gear towards the right margin of the two flakes that loom overhead. The underside of these is poor rock for gear, in most spots, but does present good underclings. A few cams (use long runners) can be had near the first of the flakes as you pass right under it (5.8?), then the crux comes at the second flake, passing on the right again (5.9). Near the crux, several .75-1.5" cams can be placed under the lip of the roof, in theory so that one of them will hold in the slightly exfoliating rock. Then, just before pulling to the right around the corner and up into the crack (crux), you will realize that a very good, solid, large stopper can be placed around the corner in the crack, in solid rock and a secure placement. Place that stopper (IE #12 BD or thereabouts) and pull up and into the vertical crack/flake to the right of the second roof. Arrange another point of protection and then make easier moves once established in the groove/flake that rises up and left for another 10 meters. This will arrive at the right side of a rounded shelf. From there, climb/traverse leftward 5+ meters ot the anchor as for Solar Eclipse. If you surmount the second flake on this traverse, the final moves to the anchor will be easier than staying low, easier to reach than topping out, and also keep drag to a minimum.
To retreat, rap 70' to the anchors for P1 of the route, staying to the climber's right on rap, following the bolts as for Solar Eclipse. Then rap 100' or slightly more down to the ground.
Begin in a large corner just right of "Twilight" with a line of bolts visible on the slab above. Climb the corner and step right when possible to clip the first of 5 bolts. Follow the right bolt line up the steep and thin slab (crux) to the arete and climb to the two-bolt anchor via a finger crack on the right side of the arete.
From the anchor on P1, look up and right past 2 overlapping bulges of rock. Climb up and right on easy moves to get into a set of off-vertical flaring cracks and some underclings. Work right on good footholds but with no good gear towards the right margin of the two flakes that loom overhead. The underside of these is poor rock for gear, in most spots, but does present good underclings. A few cams (use long runners) can be had near the first of the flakes as you pass right under it (5.8?), then the crux comes at the second flake, passing on the right again (5.9). Near the crux, several .75-1.5" cams can be placed under the lip of the roof, in theory so that one of them will hold in the slightly exfoliating rock. Then, just before pulling to the right around the corner and up into the crack (crux), you will realize that a very good, solid, large stopper can be placed around the corner in the crack, in solid rock and a secure placement. Place that stopper (IE #12 BD or thereabouts) and pull up and into the vertical crack/flake to the right of the second roof. Arrange another point of protection and then make easier moves once established in the groove/flake that rises up and left for another 10 meters. This will arrive at the right side of a rounded shelf. From there, climb/traverse leftward 5+ meters ot the anchor as for Solar Eclipse. If you surmount the second flake on this traverse, the final moves to the anchor will be easier than staying low, easier to reach than topping out, and also keep drag to a minimum.
To retreat, rap 70' to the anchors for P1 of the route, staying to the climber's right on rap, following the bolts as for Solar Eclipse. Then rap 100' or slightly more down to the ground.
Location
This is about 30' right of "Twilight". The route begins up a corner with the slab up and right. The belay is perched over a dirty gully.
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