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Routes in Nabisco Canyon

Chimney TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Wall Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Iguana TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Left route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Maggie's Farm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maggie's Traverse V1 5
Nabisco TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinky Piranha V3 6A
Quicksilver TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
RH Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scurf TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,375 total, 27/month
Shared By: Lance Ranzer on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A classic Route.

Starts on the boulder to very good first couple holds, then holds get smaller and crimpier the higher you go. Crux is 3/4 of the way up.


Just left of Maggie's Farm


Top Rope - bolts on top


Lance Ranzer  
@Sea Greens - Yes the hold has broken off making this route a lot harder, more of a 12a climb now. Oct 28, 2017
Hmmm, just got on this again for the first time in about 3 years.
I think a key hold has broken after the first 3 moves?
Can anyone verify that? Sep 12, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Did not know that the Iguana finish is no more - I remember it being much more doable than the Scurf finish.

One of my best days at Stoney was top-roping all three from left to right. Oct 26, 2015
The upper 1/4 of this route is the same finish as "Iguana", a 5.11d that once started about six feet left of Scurf. I guess through the years all the key holds on Iguana eroded, which is really unfortunate, because Iguana was a terrific climb...and it .11d..a few notches easier than the route it shared the finish with. Of historical note: Iguana was in long before Scurf, but Maggie's Farm (free) predates both by a decade. Graham Pierce once bolted a lead line left of Iguana, but the bolts were promptly rap bolting at Stoney Point! Not to mention that the rock quality will never sustain tot forces expansion anchors will receive on lead falls...Stoney is a bouldering/TR area...go to Malibu Creek for them leads! Apr 27, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
After the open moves on pretty good jugs there's a pretty darn tough move on small holds - a huge handrail broke off here about 15 years ago. After pulling that move energy reserves are key to completing the route.

Reardon used to solo this one - pretty stunning. Dec 14, 2013