Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,488 total · 15/month
Shared By: davidh on Oct 3, 2013
Admins: Chan Kim

You & This Route


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Description

P1 5.6?(last move to slab felt harder) : Fun climbing following up between two obvious grooves until a chunky move up out of the crack and then right onto slabby finish.

P2 5.8: Slab start for a few metres then follows a line between the large block on the right and the tree on the left and into a crack until the anchors below the off-width.

P3 5.8: The obvious off-width with bolts on the right hand side out of the crack. A physical jam. Finishes near tree.

P4 5.7: Obvious crack straight up- above tree- fun climbing and nice moves to exit the crack along an interesting rock formation to the left. Following climbers should walk up and left to a ledge past the anchors of p4 and then scramble up right to a near a fallen tree (10-15 metres) to reach the start of p5.

P5 5.6: Straight-forward climbing on low angled crack.

A careful scramble takes you to the top afterwards. Rap down from south side and you can just make it down in one rap with 2x 60m ropes tied together from the right most rap stations facing south

Location

Starts left (south) of the big slab near crack system where Crony is located. You need to walk up the river bed along the base of the rock. From the sign with the map this takes about 5 minutes to find the start.

Some people run out the slab to the right to reach the top of p1, but why?

Protection

A few scattered bolts. (3-4 on the outside of the off-width pitch 3) Anchors at top of each pitch.

WARNING:If you start P5 from the anchors at the top of P4 you will run short of rope. You need your following climbers to pass the anchors of P4 staying on the rope for a 10-15m scramble beyond the anchors of P4. See description above.

Photos