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Routes in Five Card Draw

Ace in the Hole T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gambler, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Royal Flush T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Engle/Jacobs 1986
Page Views: 579 total, 11/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Start immediately right of the huge chockstone, following the left line of bolts to 1 or 2 gear placements up to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Belay or continue to the top being mindful of rope drag. The next section is fun face climbing up the dihedral and crystalline crack to the top of a pillar with a bolted anchor way off right. Don't belay here, instead go straight up and yard over the roof to the summit and final anchor.

Two options to descend. Rap all the way back to the anchor for the potential first pitch, but be sure to keep the rope out of the roof crack OR make 3 raps straight down The Gambler.

The bolts on the first section (or pitch) might be a new advent. Perhaps to avoid the federal closure area...or maybe the chockstone crack itself? Regardless, it's a great route with fun climbing all the way.

Location

On the N face. Start just left of "The Gambler".

Protection

Nuts and supplement with a few less than finger to hand size cams. A med/lg hex works nice in the roof (or a funky cam placement). Runners, draws, 70M rope.

Photos

Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10a
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.10a
Great route! One of the cooler summits in the Rushmore area. Jul 23, 2015