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Royal Flush

5.10-, Trad, 200 ft (61 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 25 votes
FA: Engle/Jacobs 1986
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Emancipation > Five Card Draw
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Description

Start immediately right of the huge chockstone, following the left line of bolts to 1 or 2 gear placements up to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Belay or continue to the top being mindful of rope drag. The next section is fun face climbing up the dihedral and crystalline crack to the top of a pillar with a bolted anchor way off right. Don't belay here, instead go straight up and yard over the roof to the summit and final anchor.

Two options to descend. Rap all the way back to the anchor for the potential first pitch, but be sure to keep the rope out of the roof crack OR make 3 raps straight down The Gambler.

The bolts on the first section (or pitch) might be a new advent. Perhaps to avoid the federal closure area...or maybe the chockstone crack itself? Regardless, it's a great route with fun climbing all the way.

Location

On the N face. Start just left of "The Gambler".

Protection

Nuts and supplement with a few less than finger to hand size cams. A med/lg hex works nice in the roof (or a funky cam placement). Runners, draws, 70M rope.

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Royal Flush in all its Glory!
[Hide Photo] Royal Flush in all its Glory!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great route! One of the cooler summits in the Rushmore area. Jul 23, 2015