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Routes in Moro Rock (SEKI)

Aerial Boundaries T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arc of a Biner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bear Damage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Between the Thighs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digging in the Dirt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct East Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
Flight of Stares T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Full Metal Jacket 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A3
Holy Grail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ladies on Top T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Levity's End T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Lizards Kiss, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Guilt T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Offramp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pennies On The Patio T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
South Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stair Trek T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
There's always room for Jello S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hickey, Daly, Cook. June, 1991
Page Views: 763 total, 15/month
Shared By: Nathan W. on Sep 11, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Always check road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

A sporty route up a sustain but featured face. Knoby face climbing past bolts to a two bolt anchor. The route starts on a narrow ledge, you'll step out left and make for the small right-facing corner 10 feet up, after this climb upward through balance-e climbing from knob to knob, following the bolts for 150' to the anchor. Continue up 5.6 slab for the next pitch and one low-fifth pitch upward to the stairs as the Finish. Rapping off would result in having to down-climbing the 4/5 class sections below the climb.

Location

The route starts a few hundred feet downhill from Bear Damage(5.10). There are two ways to approach the climb. You can start down the East Gully, following a vague trail, until you see the route to the right of a right facing corner and can scramble up 4/low 5th Class blockiness, or you can walk up the stairs for a bit until you see the trail over the railing on the left that leads towards the shorter sport routes. Follow this and down climb through some trees walk across a ledge until you see a rap anchor inside of a little ravine at the end of the ledge. this Rap will take you to the base of the climb without climbing the approach blocks.

Protection

Bring plenty of alpine draws and draws. Bring TCUs for the small corner at the starts. A 60m rope if you plan on topping out and not rapping.

Photos

Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
 
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
 
A couple cruxes down low, the first crux comes near the ground with a tricky slab move left that is protected with ok cams/nuts. Then there's a weird knob mantel to get up to the 1st bolt. Sustained climbing throughout. Sometimes 10-14 ft. between bolts. Another full value Sequoia climb. You can start on Ticket Ride and move into Arc of a Biner for an easier start. Approach to the start of the climb is 4th/5th class dirty scrambling. Best to do this climb in two pitches and go right to the railing/trail on Moro rock (70m rope). Otherwise, 2 ropes needed to rap from bolts. Apr 8, 2016