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Full Metal Jacket
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British C3+
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in East Face
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Arc of a Biner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bear Damage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct East Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 |
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Flight of Stares T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Full Metal Jacket 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C3+ |
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Guitar Man T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ladies on Top T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moro Oro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Mother of Pearl S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pièce de Renaissance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 |
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Stair Trek T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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There's always room for Jello S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Aid, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade V |
| FA: | E.C. Joe and David Hickey |
| Page Views: | 2,667 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Daly on Nov 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures
Details
The SeKi Rock Climbing website nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/… has current closures as well as other climbing information for visitors.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Moro Rock (SEKI) and Chimney Rocks usually have nesting closures every year from April 1 to August 15.
As of April 2016, all routes are open to climbing.
Description
This great, fun and challenging route on the East Face of Moro Rock, was established back in September of 88' by Eddie Joe and Dave Hickey. It consists of 5 full on stiff pitches of free climbing and intricate clean cam hooking/riveting and overhanging thin blade/beak aid work. It is a great mixture of both and will most definitely give any party a day or two of worth while challenges. It doesn't see too many ascents and will most likely require some leaver gear i.e. heads and rivets. There is a awesome bivy at the top of P-4, in order to enjoy the atmosphere and scenary. Beware of both poison oak and roaming black bears that are very prevelant on the sloping 1 hour gulley down hill approach.
Location
Park at the Vista lot and descend the gully which is visible and accessed at the southeast end of the Parking Lot. Continue down the steep gully with East Face of Moro Rock on your right, approx. 45-60 minutes, to the halfway point where the obvious roofs, which are left of "Lady's on Top" and "Glow with the Flow" are located. FMJ begins at the bottom and just left of the big bulges/roof systems.
P-1: There are two starts that initiate at a bush after a 4th class romp up a slab. a) goes left and up the C-1 slightly overhanging seam over a very loose block or b) goes right and up the sightly overhanging #3 & #4 Head seam. Both go for 70' with a total legnth of P-1 @120'.
P-2: This is the Classic fine face and left thin facing corner that requires thin nuts, fine Liebacking and Face techniques. The crux 5.10 moves are at the botom as the ramp tapers off as you ascend. The pitch finishs at a single(spinner) bolt and plenty of natural pro. If you are hauling, recommend that you set up an anchor below the belay ledge as to allow the haul line a freer run. 165'.
P-3: This is the fun, thin but loose and dirty C-1 left facing and overhanging corner that turns right onto a slightly overhanging face with five nice rivets. 165'.
P-4: Starts off with very thin A2+ bladed overhanging seam onto an awkward Beak Hole which then leads to more overhanging rivets and two loose bolts. Surmount the bulge onto six more vertical rivets (#4 is pounded in but can be manipulated with a very thin #1 Stopper as a Hangar) up to the small ledge and anchor. This is a great place to bivy as there are three solid bolts and a fabulous view. 60'.
P-5: The Rivet pitch which consists of 13 solid rivets. First section of eight rivets leads you to a large horn that can be tied off then another rivet. From here, surmount the very awkward bulge onto some A2+ #2 & #3 Heads to four more rivets, than a 5.9 slab shuffle to a single bolt and natural small pro anchor. 120'.
To the Top: There are two options. You can either continue straight up on unprotected 5.8 face for 60' to two solid bolts and then 4th class for 200' which then joins the top 5.4 section of the East Face (recommended if hauling). Or, go right 140' on the 5.9 ramp to a bolt/pro belay. Then continue straight up 5.4 slabs to the railing protected tourist ledge.
Note: The haul on P-1 & P-2 can be arduous at the least.
P-1: There are two starts that initiate at a bush after a 4th class romp up a slab. a) goes left and up the C-1 slightly overhanging seam over a very loose block or b) goes right and up the sightly overhanging #3 & #4 Head seam. Both go for 70' with a total legnth of P-1 @120'.
P-2: This is the Classic fine face and left thin facing corner that requires thin nuts, fine Liebacking and Face techniques. The crux 5.10 moves are at the botom as the ramp tapers off as you ascend. The pitch finishs at a single(spinner) bolt and plenty of natural pro. If you are hauling, recommend that you set up an anchor below the belay ledge as to allow the haul line a freer run. 165'.
P-3: This is the fun, thin but loose and dirty C-1 left facing and overhanging corner that turns right onto a slightly overhanging face with five nice rivets. 165'.
P-4: Starts off with very thin A2+ bladed overhanging seam onto an awkward Beak Hole which then leads to more overhanging rivets and two loose bolts. Surmount the bulge onto six more vertical rivets (#4 is pounded in but can be manipulated with a very thin #1 Stopper as a Hangar) up to the small ledge and anchor. This is a great place to bivy as there are three solid bolts and a fabulous view. 60'.
P-5: The Rivet pitch which consists of 13 solid rivets. First section of eight rivets leads you to a large horn that can be tied off then another rivet. From here, surmount the very awkward bulge onto some A2+ #2 & #3 Heads to four more rivets, than a 5.9 slab shuffle to a single bolt and natural small pro anchor. 120'.
To the Top: There are two options. You can either continue straight up on unprotected 5.8 face for 60' to two solid bolts and then 4th class for 200' which then joins the top 5.4 section of the East Face (recommended if hauling). Or, go right 140' on the 5.9 ramp to a bolt/pro belay. Then continue straight up 5.4 slabs to the railing protected tourist ledge.
Note: The haul on P-1 & P-2 can be arduous at the least.
Protection
1-60m(Dynamic)
1-60m(Static)
2-Beaks
4-KB's(2short/thin & 2long/thin)
2-LA's(#1)
2ea-#2-5 Wired Nuts
2ea-#1-4 Wired Hex's
2ea-#4-12 Offsets
2ea-1/4"-1" TCU's
2ea-1"-4" FCU's
13ea-RivetHgrs(thin & thick or can use stoppers in a clinch)
4ea-#2-4 Spare Heads
5ea-3/8"x1" Spare Rivets
Small Bolt Kit(for possible maint/replacement i.e. old bolts/rivets)
10ea-Draws
30ea-Spare Biners
10ea-24" Slings
1-60m(Static)
2-Beaks
4-KB's(2short/thin & 2long/thin)
2-LA's(#1)
2ea-#2-5 Wired Nuts
2ea-#1-4 Wired Hex's
2ea-#4-12 Offsets
2ea-1/4"-1" TCU's
2ea-1"-4" FCU's
13ea-RivetHgrs(thin & thick or can use stoppers in a clinch)
4ea-#2-4 Spare Heads
5ea-3/8"x1" Spare Rivets
Small Bolt Kit(for possible maint/replacement i.e. old bolts/rivets)
10ea-Draws
30ea-Spare Biners
10ea-24" Slings
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