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All Locations >
Washington
> Central-W Casca…
> N Bend & Vicinity
> Exit 38
> Deception Crags
> Deception Wall
Old Milwaukee Road
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 223
votes
Routes in Deception Wall
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38 , Life , the Universe, Everything S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Market S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deliverance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Derailed S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Derailed (short) "Der" S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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End, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gray Market S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jiffy Pop S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just Dessert S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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La Vida Locomotive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Late for Dinner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Old Milwaukee Road S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Overture, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rat Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Side Dish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Underground Economy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Underhanded S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Underture, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Won't Get Fooled Again S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 47.43536, -121.66052 |
| FA: | Rustin Gibson & Keith Murakata (2010) |
| Page Views: | 12,496 total · 81/month |
| Shared By: | Rod Assis on Sep 9, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: All rock climbing routes on Deception Wall are CLOSED March 1 through July 15 every year.
Details
Washington State Parks, United States Forest Service, Washington Department of
Fish and Wildlife and Washington Climbers Coalition have worked together to
coordinate protection of a peregrine falcon nest located on the climbing wall.
Climbing at Substation, Write-Off Rock, Nevermind Wall, We Did Rock, and Hull
Creek Rock are unaffected by the closure and remain open.
If you have any questions about the closure, please contact Ranger Oakley at 425-832-2163.
Fish and Wildlife and Washington Climbers Coalition have worked together to
coordinate protection of a peregrine falcon nest located on the climbing wall.
Climbing at Substation, Write-Off Rock, Nevermind Wall, We Did Rock, and Hull
Creek Rock are unaffected by the closure and remain open.
If you have any questions about the closure, please contact Ranger Oakley at 425-832-2163.
Description
This route has been incorrectly called Wild Goat, fyi. Old Milwaukee Road is what the FA called it.
From the east end of the concrete bridge climbs up and slightly right on easy terrain. Reach left to clip a bolt at head height then do a airy maneuver to the left to gain positive holds. Straight up from there leads to a left trending somewhat chossy corner/chimney with three very closely space bolts. I was able to rap it with a 60M .
Awesome, well-protected first 10a route for all ages. The crux is right at the big block, but a big jug awaits to get you out.
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