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Routes in Deception Wall

Black Market S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Deliverance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Der Ailed, derailed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jiffy Pop S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Dessert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Vida Locamotive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Late for Dinner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Milwaukee Road S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overture, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rat Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Dish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Underground Economy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Underture, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Won't Get Fooled Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 98 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,019 total, 79/month
Shared By: Rod Assis on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route has been incorrectly called Wild Goat, fyi. Old Milwaukee Road is what the FA called it.
From the east end of the concrete bridge climbs up and slightly right on easy terrain. Reach left to clip a bolt at head height then do a airy maneuver to the left to gain positive holds. Straight up from there leads to a left trending somewhat chossy corner/chimney with three very closely space bolts. I was able to rap it with a 70M .

Awesome, well-protected first 10a route for all ages. The crux is right at the big block, but a big jug awaits to get you out.

Location

just left of Jiffy Pop (5.7). You can find Jiff pop on Garth Bruce's book (which is in need for an update).

Protection

About 14 quickdraws are necessary, 12 (13?) for the route and 2 for the anchors.

Fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

A fun moderate route with varied climbing. A 60m is just enough to rap down. Jun 3, 2017
Mack Johnson  
 
This is a very fun route and long for the area. The grade is 10a for sure. Nov 14, 2016
cashmab
  5.9 PG13
cashmab  
  5.9 PG13
Fun line, but as a professional geologist I was a bit sketched by some of the rock quality (large blocks that could become dislodged under the right circumstances) and placement of bolts on some of these questionable blocks.

Climb this route carefully and at your own risk, and I'd recommend belaying from the other side of the fence to provide at least something of a barrier in the event that any large chunks decide to come down -- and wear a helmet!

Except for one challenging crux move near the top (5.9?), the majority of this route feels like 5.7ish. Very fun line in any case. Jun 21, 2016
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
14 draws if you don't skip any clips. Watch for loose rock. 60m will get you down. Oct 18, 2015
davidbarton
  5.9
davidbarton  
  5.9
Nothing about this felt like a 5.10 to me. That said, the climbing was very fun. Hard to beat the consistency and height on this one when compared to other deception climbs. As with other routes on this wall, watch for loose rock! Jun 1, 2015
rustin
Issaquah WA
  5.10a
rustin   Issaquah WA
  5.10a
The name of this route is "Old Milwaukee Road." Named after the historic railroad that used to go through here. I bolted this route and several others in the neighborhood in the summer of 2010. Jun 13, 2014