Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Deception Wall

Black Market S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Deliverance S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Der Ailed, derailed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jiffy Pop S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Just Dessert S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Vida Locamotive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Late for Dinner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Old Milwaukee Road S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overture, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rat Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Dish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Underground Economy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Underture, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Won't Get Fooled Again S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 423 total, 8/month
Shared By: jdberndt on Jun 9, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is high quality rock with solid if not sometimes slick rock. The climbing is blocky with good stances for rest and easy clips. More or less sustained for the grade. Belay your partner up and sit at the anchor for a while to enjoy the view.

Location

There is a trail leading to start of this route at the NE end of the concrete bridge.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
H Klein
  5.9+
H Klein  
  5.9+
I just hopped the fence from the bridge onto one of the concrete buttresses. Felt much easier than the trail which is a mess of thorns and loose rock. I agree its a little tough for the grade, mostly due to the slick rock. Jul 5, 2017
Dan Corcoran
Kenmore, WA
Dan Corcoran   Kenmore, WA
This is a fun and challenging climb for its grade. Full Value 5.9.

The only bad thing about it is the approach. I don't know how often this gets climbed but in late august 2016 the trail under the bridge was a mess of thorny brush and loose dirt. Once you are under the bridge you have to scramble up a little ramp to stand on a bridge pylon for the belay. The rock is good quality, but it is very smooth and slippery in some places, including this ramp. Getting to the belay is no issue, but the first move or two is a bit exposed since you will start from this smooth ramp and you are already about 10 feet up from the ground. Add to this that the first couple of moves are a little tricky. It is probably equivalent to a V0 boulder problem but if you fall before you clip, you are going to at best hit a slick ledge and slide down the awkward ramp 10 feet. If you got hurt, it would be a major hassle to get back out from under the bridge. So, based on the fall potential, if you are leading near your limit you might want to stick clip the first bolt.

Once you are on route, this is a great climb. Definitely one of the better 5.9 routes at Exit 38 IMHO. Aug 26, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
this is about the center of the bridge, before there was a fence one would belay off the bridge. Now you have to get in from hiking in from the end.Like allot of 5.9's at Exit 38 it may be scary for a new leader. Dec 16, 2013