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Routes in Gheralta Range Koraro Spires

Magic Smelly Poodle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Tewlihe ("The Sharp One") S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 375 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: James Garrett, Peter Vintoniv, and Erik Kelly, 24 August 2013
Page Views: 576 total, 11/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 2, 2013
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Description

This is spectacular and aesthetic bolt protected face climbing up a free standing sandstone spire. Local names in the Tigray seemed vague, but most villagers referred to this slender tipped tower just to the side of Sheba as "The Sharp One".

Pitch #1: Climb up sustained and steep face moves following the fixed protection to a very good ledge and three bolt belay. 5.11d or A0, 45m, 19 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up and trend slightly right to a grassy ledge. Traverse right on the grassy ledge to another steep but easy step to another ledge with a three bolt belay. 5.10c, 25m.

Pitch #3: Continue up to a short bulge and head wall (bolt protected) to lower angle climbing up a crack and then easier run out climbing to the tower top. 5.10a, 35m.

Rappel x 2 with 2 x 70m ropes.

Location

Drive from Hawzien and to as close to the towers as you can. Park just east of the town of Koraro and hike toward the spires and to the sunny side of "The Sharp One". It is the only obvious pointy slender spire in the group.

Protection

A rack of QDs will be sufficient for most climbers though a set of Camalots to #3 and Nuts can really zip it up.
Equipped with Hilti HLC 1/2" x 3" sleeve anchors. Please consider carrying a wrench to tighten any loose heads. Some drilled and natural threads requiring webbing and cordage.

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