Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Niels Tietze, Nicojah, Mathiue Spiderman, Captain Habesha
Page Views: 1,025 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nico Parco on Jan 4, 2014

You & This Route

1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Approach: hike up the gully going up the right side of the tower.

After scrambling, you reach P1, the first section of vertical rock, here roping up is recommended but not completely necessary. Climb 15-20m and you reach a long obvious chimney with a dead end.

The next pitch (P2) starts at the end of the chimney. Climb up the chimney and to an superb obvious handcrack up to an alcove.

P3: climb out of the alcove up and to the climber's right until you reach a big ledge. This is a short pitch.

P4: the crux pitch. Follow face and crack climbing to the top of the tower. The rock is less reliable on this pitch... the crux is at the top below the tower's summit.

There should be some gear on the tower to rap off.

Read about this climb and two others in Gheralta Valley here: http://www.nicoparco.com/ethiopia-rock-climbing-tigray-towers/.

Location Suggest change

These towers are located about 10km before the Koraro Spires on the same road out of Megab leading to Koraro and beyond in the heart of Tigray and the Gheralta Massif.

The Abuna Yemata Church is possibly the most visited church in the valley.

Magic Smelly Poodle is located on the backside (relative to your approach) of the smaller (on the left) of the two towers at Abuna Yemata Guh.

Have a local to negotiate with priests who will want to charge you to climb the tower the same price as visiting the church (100 birr per person). In theory, you shouldn't pay,... but if you do, make sure you go visit the church next door. It's worth it.

Protection Suggest change

Gear: singles of 0.3-0.5 , doubles to #3, and nuts.