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Magic Smelly Poodle
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Gheralta Range Koraro Spires
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Magic Smelly Poodle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Tewlihe ("The Sharp One") S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Niels Tietze, Nicojah, Mathiue Spiderman, Captain Habesha |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nico Jah on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Description
Approach: Hike up the gully going up the right side of the tower.
After scrambling, you reach P1, the first section of vertical rock, here rope-up is recommended but not completely necessary. Climb 15-20m and you reach a long obvious chimney with a dead end.
The next pitch (P2) starts at the end of the chimney. Climb up the chimney and to an superb obvious handcrack up to an alcove.
P3: Climbs out of the alcove up and to climber's right until you reach a big ledge. Short pitch.
P4: The crux pitch. Follows face and crack climbing to the top of the tower. The rock is less reliable on this pitch... crux at the top below the tower's summit.
Should be some gear on the tower to rap off.
Read about this climb and two others in Gheralta Valley here: nicoparco.com/ethiopia-rock…
After scrambling, you reach P1, the first section of vertical rock, here rope-up is recommended but not completely necessary. Climb 15-20m and you reach a long obvious chimney with a dead end.
The next pitch (P2) starts at the end of the chimney. Climb up the chimney and to an superb obvious handcrack up to an alcove.
P3: Climbs out of the alcove up and to climber's right until you reach a big ledge. Short pitch.
P4: The crux pitch. Follows face and crack climbing to the top of the tower. The rock is less reliable on this pitch... crux at the top below the tower's summit.
Should be some gear on the tower to rap off.
Read about this climb and two others in Gheralta Valley here: nicoparco.com/ethiopia-rock…
Location
These towers are located about 10km before the Koraro Spires on the same road out of Megab leading to Koraro and beyond in the heart of Tigray ahd the Gheralta Massif.
The Abuna Yemata Church is possibly the most visited church in the valley.
Magic Smelly Poodle is located on the backside (relative to your approach) of the smaller (on the left) of the two towers at Abuna Yemata Guh.
Have a local to negotiate with priests who will want to charge you to climb the tower the same price as visiting the church (100 birr per person). In theory you shouldn't pay... but if you do, make sure you go visit the church next door. It's worth it.
The Abuna Yemata Church is possibly the most visited church in the valley.
Magic Smelly Poodle is located on the backside (relative to your approach) of the smaller (on the left) of the two towers at Abuna Yemata Guh.
Have a local to negotiate with priests who will want to charge you to climb the tower the same price as visiting the church (100 birr per person). In theory you shouldn't pay... but if you do, make sure you go visit the church next door. It's worth it.
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