Type: Sport, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, & Phyllis Suggett
Page Views: 406 total · 6/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 17, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Yet another challenging arete in the Jungle. The sharp corner becomes blunt and overhangs between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Herein lies the beta intensive crux. A wild left hand reach off of a right hand finger pocket gets you to easier climbing on a sharper corner. This little ridge is no "dog day afternoon."

Location

Just right of "Upper Your Volta" on an obvious arete. This is the first route you come to on the south trail to the Dinka Pillar. As you descend the talus trail toward the pillar the climb is on the wall on the right.

Protection

Seven bolts to chains.

Photos

BSU_Zac
  5.11+
BSU_Zac  
  5.11+
The majority of the route is in the low 10s. The crux section is three sequential and beta intensive moves on great rock with a bolt at your chest and a clean fall. Have fun. Aug 22, 2013
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.11d
As Zac stated, the crux is very beta intensive. I also found it to be brick hard with a big pull off the 2 smallest holds in the Jungle. Growing a few inches and shedding a dozen pounds would have helped...
I might have been way off my game on this line but it felt like 11d++. The art of sandbagging is alive and well in Suggettville! Jul 28, 2014