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Routes in The Dark Continent Area

African Drag Queen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
African Queen T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Assegai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Nile T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Evolutionary Leap T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hand Cannibal T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heart of Darkness T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jabu and The Lion. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Man-Chimpster United T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mountains of the Moon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Eight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Rhodesian Flycatcher S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rhodesian Ridgeback S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Upper Your Volta T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft
FA: Roy Suggett, Gene Vallee, Andy Ross
Page Views: 101 total, 2/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This demanding route has consistant .11 moves prior to the the .11+ moves about 2/3 of the way up. Exit a mantle to easier and juggie climbing left to the northwest arete and chains.

Location

This route is on the great rock of the west side of "The Dinka Pillar." Quick and easy approach!

Protection

Start with a 00 metiolus to stifle the zipper of five or six "small" wires and/or off-sets. The upper section takes a .3 and .4 BD along with runners for the chains.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11+
Reasonably hard on TR, this looked like a serious proposition on gear. The crack never opens up enough for finger locks but looks like it would gobble small nuts (ha!). Proud send by Roy! Jul 28, 2014
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Wonder who thought of that name for the route? Looks great May 7, 2014
Roy Suggett  
 
All thrills, no spills on small wires! Jul 29, 2013
Good to see you got the rotpunkt, Roy! Is the "leap of faith" obligatory or did anyone do it statically? Jul 29, 2013