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Routes in The Dark Continent Area

African Drag Queen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
African Queen T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Assegai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blue Nile T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Evolutionary Leap T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hand Cannibal T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Heart of Darkness T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jabu and The Lion. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Man-Chimpster United T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mountains of the Moon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prime Eight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Revenge of the Rhodesian Flycatcher S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rhodesian Ridgeback S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Upper Your Volta T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, Alpine, 55 ft
FA: Phyllis Suggett and Roy Suggett
Page Views: 120 total, 4/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Jul 6, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

We were so conflicted setting this line. Finding good rock in the Jungle requires vertical to over-hanging which eliminates the weathering to some extent. We are trying to establish more 8s and 9s but they are hard to find here on decent rock. This line is vertical but had tons of choss both on the face and in the crack. By spending a day crow-barring tons of death blocks away we exposed some nice and stable edges on the face. Then, because the best line wandered back and forth across the crack and there are still some structural weaknesses, we committed to a strictly sport route in an effort to save 5.8 and 9 climbers having to interpret rock quality while placing gear. We believe this was a safe compromise.

The route starts on a bouldery face which requires a lieback to gain feet for a left moving traverse. Then the moves are back and forth across the crack on big face edges. The path is obvious following the well bolted line. The exit mantle or the start is the crux depending on your strengths and/or weaknesses. There is an easier start that requires leading directly up under the second bolt but would be a bad fall if you missed the clip! You would also miss the recommended opening moves and easy first bolt.

Location

As of 7/5/15 this is the most northEASTerly route in the Jungle and is just right of the Blue Nile, another fine moderate.

Protection

Seven QDs and runners for the chains.

Photos

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