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Routes in Cirque of the Uncrackables

Boogie 'til you Puke T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bop 'til You Drop T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra Crack T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Ivan Meets GI Joe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
March Of The Kitchen Utensils T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kjell Swedin, Todd Bibler (1984)
Page Views: 2,173 total · 35/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 31, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

This offwidth corner is found in a large recess to the left of Cobra Crack. Climb a triangular block at the base, then up the crescent offwidth to an overhanging finish. Very clean and excellent, and it would probably be rated 5.10c in Yosemite.

Protection

Place a #5 Camalot in the lower section and then push two #6's above your head the rest of the way. There is a piton on the wall to your right which you can clip if you come out into a lieback for the last few feet.

2 bolt anchor/rap. I think one 60m should get you down, the climb is not "40m" as the guidebook says.

Photos

Mark van Eijk
  5.11b
Mark van Eijk  
  5.11b
A route of superlative beauty and quality. Solid hand-fist stacks, knee locks, and excellent friction see you through the first half. It is only when the angle kicks back beyond vertical that the crack opens up into true wideness, just when you need it least. From here a combination of chicken wings, heel-toes, blood, and gumption are the way forward. I'm told it is easier to layback which would be very bold indeed.

Perhaps this route would be rated differently in Yosemite, where flannel-clad hardmen eat hard offwidths for breakfast, but 11b is more than fair for the rest of us. It is on a totally different level than split beaver or bop til you drop (10b), and a serious step up from hypertension (11a) or the big guy (indian creek 11-).

I am not as bold as Bryan, and placed a #4 and two #5s in the first 40 feet. After this, shovelling #6s will see you through to the anchors. The piton is 4 feet below the anchors, right next to perfect #6 placements. You can easily lower off this route with a 70m, a 60m MAY work, I don't know. If your friends are following you, leave a few directionals; the overhang is considerable and it would be very hard to reinsert yourself near the crux. Apr 20, 2015
Agjohns
 
Agjohns  
 
Ohh the classic 5.11b Off Width, you local guys sure it wasn't Bob Scarpelli who put this one up? Sure felt like a classic Vedauwoo/Bob 11b route! Feb 12, 2018

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