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Routes in Cirque of the Uncrackables

Boogie 'til you Puke T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bop 'til You Drop T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cobra Crack T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Ivan Meets GI Joe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
March Of The Kitchen Utensils T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scimitar, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Dave Lane, Scott Flavelle 1981
Page Views: 3,287 total · 43/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on May 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This is a long burly corner crack, The corner fist crack above the lower flaring chimney is much longer than it looks. Right up there with the classic 5.10b climbs in Squamish. Don't underestimate this big boy... But it sure is a fun climb to do a few laps on once the rope is up!

Location

To the right of Cobra Crack and Left of Boogie 'til You Puke.

Protection

gear to 4-5" lots of #4 cams maybe a #5 in the chimney would be nice. a few smaller cams for the top and start. Chains at the top.

Photos

Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Stellar route! Getting a bit dirty near the top but, at that point it's locker hands anyway. Just brush the spider webs and moss out of the way.

The business portion is the overhanging fists (bring a couple #4s and a single 5 if you want good pro for this). Once you are past that bust out that hand jams and enjoy a creek style splitter to the chains. Awesome route! Definitely not a giveaway 10b. Aug 16, 2012
Mark van Eijk
  5.10+
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10+
Excellent! It's a shame it doesn't get climbed more, the top was a mess. We gave it a quick cleaning, but without traffic I doubt it will last. I thought it was harder than split beaver, but others in our group who are better at stemming felt the opposite. Styles make fights, I guess.

The start is hilarious jug-hauling into an alcove, great fun. The obvious wide section is indeed much longer and steeper than it looks from the ground. Great stems lead to a pod, where the feet dry up and the crack widens considerably beyond fists (or hand-fist stacking). Creative chimney moves get you through the crux, and then it's 60 feet of splitter hand crack to the anchors.

Protection is excellent throughout. A finger-size piece or two protects the opening moves. The fist crack goes mostly on #4s but will take one #5 right at the crux. The upper crack narrows from #3 to #0.75 camalots. Doubles in these sizes makes it comfortable. Apr 20, 2015
Scott Brown
Bellingham
 
Scott Brown   Bellingham
 
The book says 40 meters... but we were able to easily lower off with our 70m, with rope to spare. Burly Route! Jul 6, 2017

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