Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Dave Lane, Scott Flavelle 1981
Page Views: 3,348 total · 42/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on May 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


This is a long burly corner crack, The corner fist crack above the lower flaring chimney is much longer than it looks. Right up there with the classic 5.10b climbs in Squamish. Don't underestimate this big boy... But it sure is a fun climb to do a few laps on once the rope is up!


To the right of Cobra Crack and Left of Boogie 'til You Puke.


gear to 4-5" lots of #4 cams maybe a #5 in the chimney would be nice. a few smaller cams for the top and start. Chains at the top.


Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Stellar route! Getting a bit dirty near the top but, at that point it's locker hands anyway. Just brush the spider webs and moss out of the way.

The business portion is the overhanging fists (bring a couple #4s and a single 5 if you want good pro for this). Once you are past that bust out that hand jams and enjoy a creek style splitter to the chains. Awesome route! Definitely not a giveaway 10b. Aug 16, 2012
Mark van Eijk
Mark van Eijk  
Excellent! It's a shame it doesn't get climbed more, the top was a mess. We gave it a quick cleaning, but without traffic I doubt it will last. I thought it was harder than split beaver, but others in our group who are better at stemming felt the opposite. Styles make fights, I guess.

The start is hilarious jug-hauling into an alcove, great fun. The obvious wide section is indeed much longer and steeper than it looks from the ground. Great stems lead to a pod, where the feet dry up and the crack widens considerably beyond fists (or hand-fist stacking). Creative chimney moves get you through the crux, and then it's 60 feet of splitter hand crack to the anchors.

Protection is excellent throughout. A finger-size piece or two protects the opening moves. The fist crack goes mostly on #4s but will take one #5 right at the crux. The upper crack narrows from #3 to #0.75 camalots. Doubles in these sizes makes it comfortable. Apr 20, 2015
Scott Brown
Scott Brown   Bellingham
The book says 40 meters... but we were able to easily lower off with our 70m, with rope to spare. Burly Route! Jul 6, 2017